Like many others I have had issues with my wiring and rectifier and stator. I have just put a new stator on and rectifer. I replaced the wires from the stator. This worked for a few days and then the bike was over charging the battery. This is where my isses come in. I boiled the battery dry and after getting off the highway I down shifted and the bike ended up shutting down. When this happens my speedo usually goes to 0 and the bike wont start. as the batt is usually daad. This time the speedo went to 300 and now wont move. Im sure that I have a short some where? but not sure where to look. Any ideas? when this issues happended I blew the 10amp fuse for the ignition. I replaced it and everytime I ture the key on it blow it again within 2 sec. could the starter relay have anything to do with this as this is where all the power goes through first correct? does this sound right? The bike wont start as the ignition fuse keeps blowing. Can I check to see if the stator is good if the bike wont start? Im kinda sad as I have had to fix this thing a few times and the dealer is getting way to pricy. LOL I there thing I can unplug to get arounfd a short to narrow the hunt down?

Sorry I drive a 95 CBR 900 with a motor from a 1997

 

FIRST OF ALL.. YOUR RIDING A 95 FRAME WITH A 97 MOTOR.. DID YOU US A THE 97 WIRING.. MEANING RELAYS. WIRING HARNEST. RECTIFIER. AND SO ON.. IF YOU DIDN'T THIS COULD BE THE REASON WHY.. I HAVE A 95 MOTOR IN A 99 FRAME. BUT THE BIKE BEFORE THIS ONE WAS A 95 WITH A 97 MOTOR SAME AS YOURS.. AND I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.. CHANGE THE RECTIFIER. RELAYS.. AND SO ON. FROM THE 95 TO 97.. BECAUSE THE 96 AND 97 WIRING ARE SOMEWHAT DIFFERENT.. I DON'T KNOW WHY BUT THEY ARE.

 

That is a good question. Im not sure how to tell the difference. do you know? The bike was running fine. I took some bad advice on a used rectifier. it was over charging the batt and this is what caused the issue. Did you speedo go wacky? Up to 300? Im sure that I can get it fixed once the bike will run again. I need to get pasted this fuse thing. I'm thinking that my starter relay is shorting out and this is what is poping the fuse. I have unpluged almost everything else.

P.S thanks for the reply

 

remove the right rear plastic. you will see the fuse that you are talking about. Above that you will see a box with two wires. the screw is an allen key type. with out turning on the ignition switch with a flathead screwdriver touch both wires the bike should try to start.. give it two or three taps meaning touch it 2 or 3 times where the bike will want to start.. then turn the switch on a start it with the start botton.. this helped me once or twice. If you bought a rectifier that was bad you also mite have fried the wire that goes to the ignition switchit should have 2 blue wires and 1 red wire. If you follow the ignition switch wires that come out of the bottom of the key switch it should lead you to a little black connection box.. Disconnect the wires look into the box see if the connector are burnt.. At the ends of the box male and female sides check to see if the wires are making contact properly... Does the rectifier get hot.. I know that it should get hot. But I mean hot..... If so get a new one not a used one you never know if the rect. is good or bad.. Some used parts are good but others in the long run will cost you more... If you have any more question call me on my cell 718-664-0267 Jasson

 

Hey Thanks for your help!

This is what I have found and have completed.

I have removed the wire harness from the back part of the bike. I have opened it up to see if I have any wires that are bad. I have not seen any shorts as of yet.

I looked at the started relay and it the there are 4 small wires going to the relay. And 2 big groung wires.

2 wires looked like they may have shorted out. This is why I think I may need a relay. I unpluged the red w/ white stripe as this is just a charging wire corrcect?

The other one is a red wire, When I turned the key on I hear one of the relays click. So I Removed the panel up by the front left head light. I have 3 reays there. 2 are the same and the other one I think is for the head lights. If I remove the relay in the centre I can turn the key on and the 10amp fuse ingition fuse doesnt blow. The fuse is under the right hand panel second one down. If I put the relay back in then the fuse blows.

Like I said in the first message my speedo is still at 300k and wont move.

Do you think that I have blowen the speedo or will it reset it self once the issue is fixed.

The bike will turn over but I have no spark from what I can see. I think that this is because I need the 10 amp ingition fuse correct?

Im sure that I have a short somewhere I just cant find it.

could I have blowen the computer?

Anyways thanks alot for your help. I dont want to call your cell as I live in Canada and im sure that you will ge long distance charges. I will keep that as a last resort.


Thanks again,

Randy

 

Randy:

The speedo has nothing to do with the bike's ECU. The newer CBR's (including yours, I think) have a speedo sensor in the grearbox. This sends signal to the speedo itself. There are three wires for the speedo sensor: a ground, a positive feed and the signal from the sensor. I can't remember where the positive feed comes from, but I bet that sent too much current to your speedo. Personally, I would remove the 8 screws or so on the back of the gauge cluster and see if it needs a gentle nudge to return to zero. I bet it does. I won't fix itself. Well, maybe vibration from riding will fix it.

What you're describing on your starter relay plugs happened to me too. I take it the red plastic plug melted slightly allowing the plugs to touch? You likely need to cut the replay plug out and splice in a new one. I'm pretty sure this is where you're shorting.

As for the rectifier, I burn through two myself and two batteries as well. I have a unique app, but my rectifiers would get very hot from the engine bay heat. In the end, I followed what the English do, and I imported a CB 250 Superdream rectifier. It cost me $40 with shipping and everything works perfectly. It is always cool to the touch--even after a 300 mile (one way) trip I did last weekend. The ambient temp was 104 F in some places too.

--HTH, Chris

 

The speedo has nothigI mean nothing to do with the bikes ECU. As for the ECU I don't think that it would go. Just because of a bad connectio some where.. This is why I gave you the steps to follow.. I know that it is alot of work but work with me. This is the only way you and I can get to the same page o the problem that you are having...

 

I thought a little more about this. The pink wire you fried may be the imobilizer, assuming you have one. If so, the bike won't start because it thinks it's getting stolen. Check and make sure. I sometimes get confused between the UK and US spec wiring...

--Chris

 

There is no pink wire that i fried, It the 2 postive wires on the starter relay the may have shorted out. under a red/pink cap..LOL