Considering an F4 with some issues..
I found a 2000 CBR600 F4 for 2200 and it has some issues to come along with it. They say that there is an oil leak and it runs alot weaker now than before when it use to run strong. They say in example it use to top out at 170 now it only tops out at 80. They think its the carbs and it needs to be sync'd but they are not sure. It has 40k miles on it and i'm just not sure if its worth picking up. I just dont know how much it will run me when I do fix it...was wondering if anyone had any info to help me out on my decision...i'm new to bikes but very interested in getting to know them. Thanks
Last edited by DaFutureArtist; Feb 22, 2009 at 11:22 AM.
i just got that same bike but in yellow not to long ago. i got mine for $2900 it had a fork oil leak and would bog down big time.. i thought it was the carbs too but i ran sea foam through it and now it runs like a champ. if your somewhat a do it yourselfer then go for it. also keep in mind at 40k miles the clutch might go soon but even thats not to bad iv heard.. but i have had mine for about a month and iv painted the break calipers, changed break pads. flushed and sealed the gas tank and radiater, changed all filters and spark plugs , added a yellow LED underglow and a radar detecter and alarm. i would say she runs better then new now. but i like working on my own bike at my own pace. if your like me then go for it, i did
they never did 170, speedo prob said it but it wasnt going that fast. That being said if its topping at 80 now, that could be a bad problem. Being it has 40k and the PO admits to running the dog crap out of it, I bet he hasnt adjusted the valve shims. Try to do a compression test on it.
My mistake it only has 30,000 miles but not too much of a difference. I would like to be able to work on the bike but not in a sense that I would be without it for a week. I have a friend with a CNC shop that is letting me use his tools for whatever I need. I would hope its something minor like carb cleaning or sync...in which I would depend on a site like this to help me with that with write ups and/or pictures. I just hope its something thats not too out of my league in a way that I wouldnt have a specific tool or machine to fix it. Nothing makes me more confident in working on my own bike and getting to know it better inside and out...but i'd like to be driving it soon too
I'm going to ask him if he can do a compression check and still waiting on a reply about where the oil leak is coming from. Thanks.
I'm going to ask him if he can do a compression check and still waiting on a reply about where the oil leak is coming from. Thanks.
I see a problem in their rational....
You said that they think it is a carb issue, yet it leaks oil...
These two don't exactly fall within each other...
Figure out where the oil leak is from, that is the first thing to be completed if theyy are telling you this...
If they think that the power loss is due to carbs, and the oil leak is simply another minor problem, go get it checked out...
If you are handy with the mechanics of a bike, car, whatever, figure it out yourself, check the bike over, and determine what needs to be fixed.
Try to get them to define "weaker" more definitively. Like does the bike idle weak, does it have bad throttle response, does it lack top end (which apparently it does), does the bike cut out, etc...
Get as much detail as possible, records of the bike, everything possible.
The worst thing to do is buy the bike when you aren't sure what needs to be fixed, or if they aren't sure what needs to be fixed.
Peace.
You said that they think it is a carb issue, yet it leaks oil...
These two don't exactly fall within each other...
Figure out where the oil leak is from, that is the first thing to be completed if theyy are telling you this...
If they think that the power loss is due to carbs, and the oil leak is simply another minor problem, go get it checked out...
If you are handy with the mechanics of a bike, car, whatever, figure it out yourself, check the bike over, and determine what needs to be fixed.
Try to get them to define "weaker" more definitively. Like does the bike idle weak, does it have bad throttle response, does it lack top end (which apparently it does), does the bike cut out, etc...
Get as much detail as possible, records of the bike, everything possible.
The worst thing to do is buy the bike when you aren't sure what needs to be fixed, or if they aren't sure what needs to be fixed.
Peace.
My F4 has 30000 on it and it runs like a champ.. If it ran strong before and now it has nothing they had to beat it horribly.. I run mine hard and it still holds up great. For another 1000 you could be looking at an F4 in a better position.


