hmm 2amps should not cause battery to drop repeatedly and not recover.

Rather than measuring current of fan-circuit itself, work upstream and measure entire circuit from fan-fuse. Maybe something's connected to that circuit in parallel with fan.

How is condition of stator-to-RR connector?
Terminals in red starter-solenoid connector?

 

Not sure if this has been said yet, but the negative terminal should go from battery to one of the starter bolts (at least that's how it is on mine).

 

Or negative to engine itself. Starter is grounded to engine.

 

Thanks for the reply guys due to the weather and work I haven't had much time to look into it any further but I have looked at it now and initially my stator seemed good (0l to earth and 0.3 ohms between phases and 21vac at idle) but after further testing 3 days ago with it unplugged from the reg rec initially at idle it was showing 21vac and when warm it was then reading 14-15vac, so re tested again today and when cold and when warm it is only outputting around 14-15vac when idling and at 5000rpm its outputting around 40ish vac so I'm now thinking that it is not putting out enough at idle (I read it should be between 18-24 vac ) so i think that couple of volts may be making the difference and a new stator is needed. (Unless anyone thinks otherwise?)

 

That does seem like low stator output with RR disconnected. Should be around 20 VAC at idle

 

Thanks for the help guys quick update I replaced the stator with a new one and output at idle is around 16vac and problem is better but still persists. I discovered my dc current meter was broken so ive bought a new one to re check all amp draw (cheap 20 quid clamp meter from amazon). I could clamp it around the negative lead back to the battery and with the headlights on full beam and brake pedal pressed with fan off the reading is around 8 amps, with the fan on this increases to around 15 amps. So I decided to take the 10amp fuses out and put a probe either side to try and check current draw that way for each individual circuit and according to the meter the headlight circuit when on full beam is drawing 9amps, the fan is drawing 10.5 amps and the meter circuit is drawing 10.7amps (when putting the probes either side of the fuse holder and getting a reading the fan or meter doesn't come on but should it?) I also took the fan connector off and put a probe between the live terminals and it was reading around 11 amps. This all seems really high to me as it equates to about 368watts and the stator only puts out 343w according to the manual, but i don't know what could be causing them all to be this high. Does anyone have any info on what amp all these circuits should be and what would cause excessive amp draw