clean all the restrictions out of your air intake... i.e. the big baffles in your air box... the expansion chambers on your intake tubes... you want to get that air to the carbs as fast as possible. The carbs and intake side will provide sufficient turbulence for fuel mixture and atomization. It will make it more finicky at a dead start... but that is the trade off in shifting your power band... it's gotta come from somewhere.

 

Are you asking about mid range power because yours feels flat? Typically people want more power across the band, not in 1 spot. I find this an odd question thats all.

If your mid range feels week compared to the other ranges, you need to work on your jetting and clean your carbs. Most likely need to lean out your needles a bit.

If you just want more pull in general, the suggestions these guys are giving work.

 

Sorry gonna be contraversal here,

Those baffles actually help the mid range / top end by removing the pulses of air and help to remove the vacum caused by the standing waves.

Think about it- Would honda spend loads on tunning time and the cost of making and fitting to all the models if when you remove them it gets better?

I saw an article on them somewhere, cant remmeber where,,,, Ill try to did it out.

For your advance., you need to work out what gas you are running on, I would say 3° or 4° and run on regular gas. 87 - 91 ron, if you go too far the engine will pink, and you will need better gas.,

 

Not sure what that means but 95 unleaded it standard here. I just use that.

I rode a friends (liter) bike around the time I was asking that question and I guess that's where it all came from. I like the smooth nature of my bike but miss the extra oomph of a liter bike. Not because I want to go fast as **** but because it felt so effortless to ride on the liter bike (around the mid range). I ride sporty but also just cruise a lot and chill out on the bike with one hand on the hip. I love a mellow cruise.

Thanks for the suggestions all. I'm just going to keep it as it is and buy a naked liter bike to supplement my F4.

 

Just for everyons's clarity, the 87 - 91 ron thing should have said 87 - 91 (R+M)/2, or 87 -91 AKI. RON octane numbers are significantly higher than the AKI for any given sample of gasoline (petrol).

 

well wizard you are entitled to your opinion, but it actually helped my bike to do that from 4K-up... the butt dyno approved. Plus I don't think all the moto gp bikes really use them. Hence the following from MotoGP rules:

2. Fuel System
Airbox: Only the standard airbox supplied by the official Supplier (including air filter and secondary injectors) may be used. No modifications, alterations or additions to this airbox are allowed, except as described in Art. 2.3.9.2. 6).
To ensure correct performance the official Supplier does not recommend any change to the airbox. However at the risk of the team, the following changes are allowed:
a) The intake ducts, ahead of the air filter, may be changed to suit individual chassis designs.
b) The resonance chambers and the top of the airbox (airbox lid) may be replaced or modified, provided that the total airbox volume, from the filter back, is no larger than the original. Refer to Diagram 4 in the Appendix. If such a modified cover is fitted, the original air temperature sensor must be fitted on this cover in a position equivalent to the original position, and may not be horizontally closer to the secondary injectors than the original position. Refer to Diagram 5 in the Appendix.
c) A catch-tank may be fitted in the engine breather between the cam cover and airbox. The catch tank is solely for the purpose of collecting engine fluids, no other functions (such as pressure modification) are permitted and breather connections may only be directly between the cam cover, catch tank and airbox. The catch tank and connections must be visible for inspection at all times (that is, not permanently built into the chassis or other parts).
3. Diagram 4: Airbox
The main airbox body, shown inside the line, must be original and is mandatory. The intake duct ("intake connection to frame") may be replaced. The resonance chambers on the airbox lid, including the top cover if required, may be replaced or modified. Airbox volume, from the filter back, must not be more than the original.
Numbers and Backgrounds:

• The racing number must be affixed to the front of the motorcycle fairing in a central position. Rear or side numbers are optional.
• Numbers should be a minimum height of 140 mm.
• Numbers must be easily legible, in a clear simple font and contrast strongly with the background color. In the Moto2 and 125cc classes, numbers must be of one single color which contrasts strongly with the background color. A small outline in a different color is permitted.
• Backgrounds must be of one single color over an area large enough to provide a minimum clear area of 25mm around the numbers.
• In the Moto2 and 125cc classes, teams with more than one rider must differentiate between the riders by using different number and/or background colors.
• In case of a dispute concerning the legibility of numbers, the decision of the Technical Director will be final.

There's prolly a reason there are those rules in place

 

Yes, and the main reason is to preclude ram-air intake tuning downstream of the filter, which is to do with maintaining the field-leveling afforded by the as-supplied parts.

The baffles, etc. in the stock air boxes are there for the same primary reason(s) they're there on cars: airflow modification and management, to the primary end of silencing or noise reduction. That doesn't mean that removing them will automatically increase power, as _many_ automobile owners have discovered if/when they ever take their cars to a dyno to see how many hp their K&N drop-in filter didn't gain them.