with proper jetting and carb synchronization the throttle response is a nonissue. unless you're riding with chilly weather the worst problem with carbs is waiting the 5 minutes or so for it to warm up. otherwise, I see no problem with carbs. Ditch the PAIR and canister **** and it doesn't get any easier to work on em. Seriously, the 500 bucks+ in swapping an f4 to an f4i could go much much further performance wise. Side by side the bikes performance wise are too close to justify spending the 500 bucks for FI vs. the same money in suspension upgrades.

also, if you wanna do it with the F4 long block, as in everything from valve cover down, you'll pretty much HAVE TO get a PC3 and remap to compensate for the different engine parameters(cams/head) between the F4 and F4i. That alone is about $200-$250 if not more

 

My f4 had more seat to pants torque than the f4i. It wheelied easier too. The f4i I could probably spend hours tuning and get it there but the f4 I was simple as setting the jetting right.

As for doing the long block deal posted above, You have to have an f4i head including cams or you will not be able to use an f4i pcm which means the pc3 will do no good. There is a sensor on the f4i head that reads a point on the exhaust cam of the f4i. The only way to do the long block method would be to go with a standalone system such as megasquirt or microsquirt and your looking at around $700 invested in that alone.

 

I'm doing it right now on my 00' F4, full F4i engine swap