CBR 600 F4 No spark
#1
CBR 600 F4 No spark
Heyo. So I have a 1999 CBR 600 F4 which has been quite the project. I got it running not that long ago and ended up getting cut off and proceeded to lay it down. Since then I had it running one time and took it for a test ride. It ran smoothly for most of the ride until I was returning home. It started to not run weird like it was trying to stall on me, so I tired to get it home relatively quickly and it ended up dying right down the street from my apartment. I ended up having to push it home. Now I didn't have any prime in my fuel pump anymore and I ended up with a new ignition. I know about the Diode and attempted to solder a new one in Though I am not sure if I did it right (I will be getting a multimeter tomorrow) I also noticed that I was missing a coil when I went to go do multimeter testing with a buddy of mine and I just assumed that the missing coil had to be the reason for my no spark problem. Which I also assumed that was the reason that the bike stalled on me in the first place. I now have 4 new coils, spark plugs. I have changed all the fuses including the main fuse. So my question would be if I am reading the 9 volts from the "pink wire" what else would be suggested I check into. I have a new battery, new stator, and new r/r along with the other stuff mentioned. Everything but the ignition and the new coils I was riding fine with before it stalled and no start. I figured I check tor the 9 volts and then check to make sure that the new coils have power. I just wouldn't know where to check after that. I also apologize in advance I am new to working on bikes and I have never posted in a forum before. Thanks to any and all that reply!
#2
make sure you are getting 9vdc to the pink wire at the CDI box connector. its possible to have a broken wire somewhere in there. it kind of sounds like you threw some parts at it without knowing exactly what the issue was. if I didn't know any better, the description you provided almost sounds like a fuel delivery issue, but that would not explain your lack of spark. here are a few tests you can do while you wait for the DMM to arrive.
make sure your kill switch is in the run position (flip it a few times, sometimes the contacts get dirty if not used often)
with the kill switch in the run position, turn your key from "off" to "on"
you should hear a little popping noise from under the tank. this is your PAIRS solenoid valve. if you do not hear this, then you have an electrical issue.
at the same time, you should also hear your fuel pump prime. if the carbs are already full, you will not be able to hear the fuel pump. so you could try draining your float bowls, then try this test again to see if the fuel pump runs.
when your DMM arrives, check the pink wire for 9vdc at the CDI connector (under tail fairing)
measure your resistance value of your pick-up coil. this wire is coming out of the top of the clutch cover.
if you have spark on 1 coil, you SHOULD have spark at all 4. if you do not have spark on any individual coil but do on others, then you have a bad coil or a bad wire.
make sure your kill switch is in the run position (flip it a few times, sometimes the contacts get dirty if not used often)
with the kill switch in the run position, turn your key from "off" to "on"
you should hear a little popping noise from under the tank. this is your PAIRS solenoid valve. if you do not hear this, then you have an electrical issue.
at the same time, you should also hear your fuel pump prime. if the carbs are already full, you will not be able to hear the fuel pump. so you could try draining your float bowls, then try this test again to see if the fuel pump runs.
when your DMM arrives, check the pink wire for 9vdc at the CDI connector (under tail fairing)
measure your resistance value of your pick-up coil. this wire is coming out of the top of the clutch cover.
if you have spark on 1 coil, you SHOULD have spark at all 4. if you do not have spark on any individual coil but do on others, then you have a bad coil or a bad wire.
#3
Also measure state of safety-interloc switches. Notice when you come to stop in gear with clutch squeezed, and you put down kickstand, it kills engine?
1. measure continuity of kickstand switch in up & down positions
2. measure continuity of clutch switch in squeezed & released positions.
3. measure continuity of neutral-switch to chassis-ground in neutral. Do you get green light on dash?
4. measure resistance of wires end-to-end that connect these switches to ignitor.
Most of time, it's broken or corroded wires/connectors that cause this problem, and all parts are perfectly fine. Here's recent thread where crash caused break in kickstand wire that killed spark. Would've been 5-minute fix if he just used multimeter to measure.
https://www.600rr.net/threads/solved...rottle.591558/
1. measure continuity of kickstand switch in up & down positions
2. measure continuity of clutch switch in squeezed & released positions.
3. measure continuity of neutral-switch to chassis-ground in neutral. Do you get green light on dash?
4. measure resistance of wires end-to-end that connect these switches to ignitor.
Most of time, it's broken or corroded wires/connectors that cause this problem, and all parts are perfectly fine. Here's recent thread where crash caused break in kickstand wire that killed spark. Would've been 5-minute fix if he just used multimeter to measure.
https://www.600rr.net/threads/solved...rottle.591558/
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