Where is the air fuel mixture screw on the 2000 F4 carburetor and what tools will I need to adjust it? I'm taking my bike in to get the carburetors synchronized after taking them apart to clean them, and the technician told me to make sure the air fuel screws were all equal (2.5 turns out for each) before bringing it in (to save some $ on the repairs since they charge by the hour at this shop).

The second question I have is about the speedo/tach needles in the guage cluster. I took those apart and put on some blue illumiglo guages and accidentally popped off the needles. When I put them back on, I must've put them on incorrectly because the speed and RPMs aren't accurrate. Does anyone have any in depth experience with the needles/cluster? Should I have put the needles back on the spindle before (behind) the stop bar (the would-be negative number side)? Or after (in front) of the stop bar (the positive number side)?

Any help with these two issues would be a great help.

 

I was just wondering if that Tech. is sure 2.5 turns back on the Air/Fuel screws....i'm having problems....just put new OEM plugs.
Thanks Mike

 

for the gauges - it needs in be on top (in front) of the stop bar. When your needle popped, the base continuedto rotate out since the needle was no longer stopping it. You'll need to rotate back and reattach your needles. And be more careful next time with your gauge cluster. I've done those same gauges and there is no need to push that hard on the needles.

 

When I popped off the needles, I put them back on when the bike was in the ON position-so the speedo and tach zeroed themselves. Then I popped on the needles straight on the spindle right on top (in front of) the stop bar to try and get the most accurate readings. This didn't give me the most accurate readings, however, and the speedo needle is roughly 5 to 10 mph off (depending on speed). I guess the question is should I have popped the needles on the spindle under (behind) the stop bar and then pushed it over to the front of the stop bar? Or is there some special way they needed to go back on??

 

I think the problem is that the needles do NOT zero themselves. They just go until the gear stops - thus the reason for the stop peg. You do not need to remove the needles to install gauges and now that its been done - it'll be tough to get them back to stock readings. As of now, I would try putting the needles back off under the stop peg and manually moving the needle in front of the stop peg to zero. Do all of this with the gauges off the bike.

Question I have for you: Since I didn't remove the needles, i do not know if the needles can be put back on in any direction. Or is there only one way the needle can attach?