hello everyone,

I pulled my carbs off during the winter to go through them and just got around to installing them about a week ago. found out I broke an o-ring on a fuel tee and it was dumping gas everywhere so i pulled them back off and replaced the o-ring. on the first test ride it was acting like it was out of gas. i had to hold the throttle open in 6th gear just to keep up with traffic (45mph zone) because the bike had no power. i pulled off the road and checked the fuel pump. it did not seem to be functioning so i limped it back home and found the contacts were all burnt up on the back of the pump. instead of replacing the contacts, i opted for replacing the whole pump due to the fact that the bike sat for years and the fuel turned to varnish before i bought it. bought a new pump and filter from ron ayers (honda dealer) and installed it yesterday. i primed it a few times with the key and could hear the fuel pump operate until the carbs filled and the pump stopped priming. i assume this was just because the carbs were filled and the pump could no longer move fuel due to the pressure. took it for a ride and it acts pretty much the same. when i pull out of my driveway, i can get 1 good pull out of it, then it loses power and starts to buck, stutter, and tries to die. seems to run better with the choke at this point. when this is happening, if i pull the clutch in, the rpms drop down below 1,400 and progressively slow down until it dies. if i give it a minute, i can start it back up just fine. seems to rev just fine standing still but its almost un-rideable. when idling, i can feel the fuel pump click every now and then so i assume its keeping the bowls filled at idle. when im on the road, it is very difficult to check but im fairly certain i can feel the fuel pump clicking while above 20mph. does anyone have any ideas as to what might be going on? i also had gone to the gas station and put 4 gallons of premium in the tank prior to discovering the above information.

 

Don't use anything other than octane recommended by manufacturer. Higher octane is more difficult to ignite, burns slower and makes less power unless engine was designed for it from start.

1. verify float-levels and bowl fulling by draining each one separately. Are volumes in each one same and of proper amounts?

2. when cleaning carbs, did you do complete disassembly down to every last individual compnennt?

3. scrub all hidden secret passages in carb-body with brushes and PEA-based fuel-system cleaner?

4. poke out all bleed-holes in carb-venturi, emulsion tubes and jets?

5. ultrasonic soak everything overnight?

6. micro-sofa blast everything at end? Cleaning typically dislodges chunks of dried petrol that can clog bleed holes

7. replace all rubbers: float valves, pilot screw O-rings, fuel-rail O-rings, float bowl seals, even slide diaphragms if needed

8. adjust float-level with wet-test and sync carbs

Any one of these items, if not done, can cause your issues.

 

investigated my problem over the weekend and found that i had forgotten to plug in one of the hoses (colored in red in photo). i had also taken that time to make sure my TPS was adjusted correctly. Idle should measure between 490-510 ohms and it was measuring a little above 600. so i plugged in the hose and adjusted the TPS and now it seems to run fine.