Pull the tank and air-box, that should get you access to where you can screw it
back into the bodies.

Ern

 

The cable goes underneath to the #3 carb and I agree that trying to thread it back in with carbs in place would be a challenge. Removing the carbs to get better access isn't that big of a deal, the only "special" tool you may need is a really long phillips head screw driver and if the routing of the direct air intake lines seem imposing to you, just whip out your digital camera and take some close up pics of them before removing any of the lines. Each rubber boot that connects the carbs to the head has 2 clamps, 1 to secure the boot to the head and the other to secure the other end of the boot to the carb. Which set of clamps you choose to loosen is up to you. I myself choose the top clamps that clamp the boots to the carbs but you'll need a really long screw driver to do it because the head of the screws on the top clamps all face to the left of the bike and a long screw driver is needed to get to the #3 and #4 boot clamps. The phillips head screw driver I use has a shaft length of 16 inches and is plenty long enough to reach the top clamp of the boot on the #4 carb when coming from the left. The biggest PITA is the throttle cables however all you're trying to do is move the carbs out of the way enough to gain access to threading that cable back in so you don't have to mess the throttle cables though you may want to remove the choke cable but that's no biggee. Once all the D.A.I. lines and fuel lines are out of the way and you've pulled the carbs off the boots you can simply rotate the carbs on their side with throttle cables still attached which should give you all the access you need to thread that cable back into the #3 carb.

 

Oh and just so you don't confuse the daylights out of anyone reading this post, the cable you're referring to is the idle speed control cable or as the manual calls it the throttle stop cable.