Tachometer problems
#11
03-27-2013, 05:33 AM
I have used one of those fluke 87's before. Very nice. But they are damn expensive and hard to find used at a good price.
#12
03-27-2013, 11:23 AM
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fortunately I a mechanic, and have a fluke that reads peak voltage. For a little update if anyone is interested I tested the signal wire and had 11.3-12.9v running through it, depending on throttle position.
Iv gone back and re-tried everything I had done already, just to make sure. Still no positive results. The only way I can get the tach to read is by hooking it up to the yellow wire from the pulse generator. The problem as I said before, at 900 rpm idle...the tach reads 12-13k rpms.
What should I be setting the pulse pickup as? I can choose between 1 and 12. I would assume that 2 would be correct since the f3 is a "wasted spark" ignition system. Although I have tried all 1-12 settings with no change in tach response, regardless of if it is hooked up to the coil, spark plug wire, or pulse generator.
I am about to fix this gauge with a 12lbs sledge, and be done with it.
Another problem I have notice, I took the bike around the block yesterday to do a couple tests, and noticed that although the tach doesn't work, the speedometer does. The problem is, like the tach it reads incorrect. When I am doing approximately 30mph, the speedo is reading upwards of 125mph, "Well officer..my speedo said..haha"
Now I am not using the magnet pickup that came with the gauges, I am using the speed sensor on the f3. I have the choice of changing the wheel parameters, but am unsure of what they should be. I am running a stock rear wheel, but have a 180 instead of a 160 if that would make a diff.
Any advice whatsoever is more than welcome, as I am getting to the point of wanting to end this project with a gallon of gas and a stick match!
Iv gone back and re-tried everything I had done already, just to make sure. Still no positive results. The only way I can get the tach to read is by hooking it up to the yellow wire from the pulse generator. The problem as I said before, at 900 rpm idle...the tach reads 12-13k rpms.
What should I be setting the pulse pickup as? I can choose between 1 and 12. I would assume that 2 would be correct since the f3 is a "wasted spark" ignition system. Although I have tried all 1-12 settings with no change in tach response, regardless of if it is hooked up to the coil, spark plug wire, or pulse generator.
I am about to fix this gauge with a 12lbs sledge, and be done with it.
Another problem I have notice, I took the bike around the block yesterday to do a couple tests, and noticed that although the tach doesn't work, the speedometer does. The problem is, like the tach it reads incorrect. When I am doing approximately 30mph, the speedo is reading upwards of 125mph, "Well officer..my speedo said..haha"
Now I am not using the magnet pickup that came with the gauges, I am using the speed sensor on the f3. I have the choice of changing the wheel parameters, but am unsure of what they should be. I am running a stock rear wheel, but have a 180 instead of a 160 if that would make a diff.
Any advice whatsoever is more than welcome, as I am getting to the point of wanting to end this project with a gallon of gas and a stick match!
#13
03-28-2013, 04:21 AM
Fortunately I a mechanic, and have a fluke that reads peak voltage. For a little update if anyone is interested I tested the signal wire and had 11.3-12.9v running through it, depending on throttle position.
Iv gone back and re-tried everything I had done already, just to make sure. Still no positive results. The only way I can get the tach to read is by hooking it up to the yellow wire from the pulse generator. The problem as I said before, at 900 rpm idle...the tach reads 12-13k rpms.
What should I be setting the pulse pickup as? I can choose between 1 and 12. I would assume that 2 would be correct since the f3 is a "wasted spark" ignition system. Although I have tried all 1-12 settings with no change in tach response, regardless of if it is hooked up to the coil, spark plug wire, or pulse generator.
I am about to fix this gauge with a 12lbs sledge, and be done with it.
Another problem I have notice, I took the bike around the block yesterday to do a couple tests, and noticed that although the tach doesn't work, the speedometer does. The problem is, like the tach it reads incorrect. When I am doing approximately 30mph, the speedo is reading upwards of 125mph, "Well officer..my speedo said..haha"
Now I am not using the magnet pickup that came with the gauges, I am using the speed sensor on the f3. I have the choice of changing the wheel parameters, but am unsure of what they should be. I am running a stock rear wheel, but have a 180 instead of a 160 if that would make a diff.
Any advice whatsoever is more than welcome, as I am getting to the point of wanting to end this project with a gallon of gas and a stick match!
Iv gone back and re-tried everything I had done already, just to make sure. Still no positive results. The only way I can get the tach to read is by hooking it up to the yellow wire from the pulse generator. The problem as I said before, at 900 rpm idle...the tach reads 12-13k rpms.
What should I be setting the pulse pickup as? I can choose between 1 and 12. I would assume that 2 would be correct since the f3 is a "wasted spark" ignition system. Although I have tried all 1-12 settings with no change in tach response, regardless of if it is hooked up to the coil, spark plug wire, or pulse generator.
I am about to fix this gauge with a 12lbs sledge, and be done with it.
Another problem I have notice, I took the bike around the block yesterday to do a couple tests, and noticed that although the tach doesn't work, the speedometer does. The problem is, like the tach it reads incorrect. When I am doing approximately 30mph, the speedo is reading upwards of 125mph, "Well officer..my speedo said..haha"
Now I am not using the magnet pickup that came with the gauges, I am using the speed sensor on the f3. I have the choice of changing the wheel parameters, but am unsure of what they should be. I am running a stock rear wheel, but have a 180 instead of a 160 if that would make a diff.
Any advice whatsoever is more than welcome, as I am getting to the point of wanting to end this project with a gallon of gas and a stick match!
#15
04-25-2013, 07:02 AM
#16
04-25-2013, 09:05 AM
Oh yeah. Furthermore, popular ignition companies like MSD have built in Tach outputs that generate a DC Square wave, for use with modern tachometers like from AEM. They also sell Tach Adapters.
#17
04-25-2013, 10:48 PM
#18
04-26-2013, 09:19 PM
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As for an update. I have done a lot of small things, but have been extremely busy at work for the last couple months, and have not had time to make any big improvements to the project. I hope I can get that changed soon. The weather is starting to get nice again!!
#19
04-26-2013, 10:31 PM
http://mallory-ignition.com/fuel-inj...r-adapter.html I've used these, as they are the least expensive. However, never used one on the F3. I still run the stock gauge.