rev really slow
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 203
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From: Grand Junction, CO
Mine did this when I had the pilot jets adjusted too rich and the PO had the coils hooked up backwards. I fixed the coils, adjusted the pilots and re-synced it and it will roar to redline faster than ever.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
have you downloaded the Service manual yet?
The best way to sync it is to let the bike warm up then prop the tank up enough so you can access the 3 Phillips head screws attached to the butterfly valves (one between each carb). Some people do this with the airbox off, I personally don't think thats necessary, plus with the box off airflow is different. You can reach them with a good thin 6-8" #1 phillips head driver. The one I use was made for computer repairs.
BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT TURN THEM ALL THE WAY OUT! YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE CARBS TO GET THEM BACK IN! (I DID THIS LOL)- they are only about a 1/4" long each.
Hook your sync tool up to the vacuum ports on the bottom of each carb and the screw-in one on the side of carb #1. Start by turning the screw between carbs #3 and 4 until the vacuum level is even between them, then do the same for the screw between carbs #1 and 2. Finally do the center one between #2 and 3 to balance both sets together. Vacuum is most stable at higher RPMs, I had to turn my idle up to 4-5K before I could get a really smooth display since my guages are the kind-of cheap needle type. Just turn your idle to the point where the readings aren't bouncing all over, any higher isnt useful. Once I got it all done I dropped the idle and gave it a few quick revs, let it idle for 1-2 minutes then revved it up to 4-5K to double check that they were all still even.
For the pilot valves it depends if you have a jet kit or not, I have a jet kit so I turned mine all the way in (lightly seated) then backed them out 1/2 turn- then make small adjustments at idle until it smoothed out. I think OEM starts with 2 turns out (?) Again start with #3 (this is always your reference carb) and work your way around.
You might find this write-up helpful aswell.
http://www.musclecross.com/forum/vie...php?f=10&t=113
The best way to sync it is to let the bike warm up then prop the tank up enough so you can access the 3 Phillips head screws attached to the butterfly valves (one between each carb). Some people do this with the airbox off, I personally don't think thats necessary, plus with the box off airflow is different. You can reach them with a good thin 6-8" #1 phillips head driver. The one I use was made for computer repairs.
BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT TURN THEM ALL THE WAY OUT! YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE CARBS TO GET THEM BACK IN! (I DID THIS LOL)- they are only about a 1/4" long each.
Hook your sync tool up to the vacuum ports on the bottom of each carb and the screw-in one on the side of carb #1. Start by turning the screw between carbs #3 and 4 until the vacuum level is even between them, then do the same for the screw between carbs #1 and 2. Finally do the center one between #2 and 3 to balance both sets together. Vacuum is most stable at higher RPMs, I had to turn my idle up to 4-5K before I could get a really smooth display since my guages are the kind-of cheap needle type. Just turn your idle to the point where the readings aren't bouncing all over, any higher isnt useful. Once I got it all done I dropped the idle and gave it a few quick revs, let it idle for 1-2 minutes then revved it up to 4-5K to double check that they were all still even.
For the pilot valves it depends if you have a jet kit or not, I have a jet kit so I turned mine all the way in (lightly seated) then backed them out 1/2 turn- then make small adjustments at idle until it smoothed out. I think OEM starts with 2 turns out (?) Again start with #3 (this is always your reference carb) and work your way around.
You might find this write-up helpful aswell.
http://www.musclecross.com/forum/vie...php?f=10&t=113
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