I think its at the back wheel, on dyno print out as 98.3hp

 

Cool, this makes me really want to change out my cams. At least I know my cali f3 has to the potential to be even faster.

 

If you get over to the cbr6ers forum on bikers oracle. I will be putting up a how to do in the next week or two when i get a chance. I have a 95 Fs and am in the process of stripping it all out and doing a writeup about it.

 

how do you know if you have a cali version? does it say on the frame somewhere?

 

If you have a sticker on the top of your air box like I do you'll see a plumbing diagram and it will say California model or something.

That's the easiest way in my opinion.

 

k thanks

 

There is a sticker on the airbox and also one on the rear subframe just above where the left pillion footrest bolts on.

If you look underneath you will see a cannister at thew back of the engine and a "box" on the right side between the engine and exhaust.

 

Cool post up when you do

 

I found this on some old google forum that talks about removing all the emission systems on the cali models. 97 CBR F3 Emission Controls - alt.motorcycle.sportbike | Google Groups

I thought I would post it up in here so someone can find it down the road. I plan on doing all this one day...

This is based on my experience with other recent Hondas, though not the
F3. There are two external emission control systems on California
bikes:
o Secondary air supply system: introduces fresh air into exhaust ports,
oxidizing hydrocarbons and CO in the exhaust. A reed valve allows air
from the airbox to be sucked into the exhaust ports during the negative
pressure pulse that follows the exhaust pulse. Under high intake vacuum
(such as when decelerating with throttle closed), the fresh air supply
is cut off to prevent backfiring.

To remove this system (for off-road use only), replace the exhaust port
fittings with block-off plates available from various aftermarket
suppliers. I'd guess they cost around $10 each. Alternatively, you can
drill the brazed tube out the stock fittings, tap them for 1/4" NPT (?),
and screw in standard pipe plugs (use a high-temp sealant). Remove the
vacuum cut-off valve and cap its vacuum source.

o Evaporative control: captures vapor from fuel tank and float bowls
in activated charcoal canister. Float bowls vent to the canister only
when the engine is NOT running (determined by vacuum); when running,
they vent to atmosphere. Canister is purged by vacuum while engine
running to recycle vapor.

To remove this system (for off-road use only), remove the canister and
the two vacuum valves that control operation. Cap vacuum sources for
the two valves and canister purge, route vents for gas tank and float
bowls. Get the best vacuum caps that you can find, and inspect them
regularly (~8000mi) because they tend to deteriorate.

Note that neither of the systems above costs much power. However,
removing them does make the engine easier to work on because of the
dozen or so hoses, tubes, and gadgets that get in the way of anything
you want to do. If you do this yourself, I strongly recommend getting
the Honda service manual and studying it thoroughly so you know exactly
what each part does.

The big power drain in some CA bikes--including the F3, IIRC--comes from
less-radical cams. For your engine to be all that it can be, you really
need to replace the CA-spec cams with 49-state cams and adjust jetting
accordingly. I have no information to offer in that area. Maybe
someone who's actually done the cam and carb upgrades can fill you in on
the details.

--
Dan Carter, San Luis Obispo, CA