You're just doing this to test that the fuel cutoff relay isn't preventing the fuel pump from working properly. You can run it like this for a while but risk having the jumper shake loose and stranding you.

Unplug the relay's connector from the relay. Take an insulated piece of wire and connect it across the black / white & black / blue wires in the connector. If you turn on the bike and the pump runs, the relay is prolly bad. It's a solid state item so the only option is to replace it.

Its circled on the attached pic

 

Ok kool, thanks kuroshio, I will try it this weekend.

 

I take exception to this statement. Bypassing the relay does not indicate that the relay is bad. Providing power to the pump in this fashion is not how the pump operates under normal operating conditions. The pump relay receives pulsed signals from the ICM, which effectively provides lower power to the pump than battery voltage. Because it's a solid state device, you would need to determine if any voltage is going to the pump when the engine is running in order to determine if the relay was bad or not. The voltage that you read at the pump is not going to be 12v, but something in the area of 8 or 9 vdc. Solid state relays are extreemly reliable and I would be very surprised that the relay is bad.

There was a good discussion on the operation of the Fuel Cut Relay a couple of months ago. You can view it here.

Kuroshio, don't take this the wrong way...

 

Idodirt, I'm ordering the Switch Contacts from cycle gear tomorrow, but they told me it was $24.99, they must've dropped in price cuz you said they were like $40. Hopefully that will fix my problem. thanks for your help

 

RAWR! Exception! Exception!

Kidding That's actually the from the Haynes manual for the F3. The prior assumptions are that the pump is non-functional and fuses have been checked up to this point. If by jumpering the relay's connector the pump operates, then there relay or its section of the wire harness is at fault.

The service manual (Chpt 18, sec 15) goes further into testing, checking for continuity along the wire harness and voltage at the pump (doesn't specify voltage levels). I went through it all the way before replacing my pump after the relay & wire harness passed both diag routines (Haynes and service manual).


Edit:
BTW I replaced the pump before you posted on how to rehab the pump. Murdocity, I'd recommend making sure the pump is at fault before you go spending money on new contacts. A solid state device like the relay should be reliable, as IDoDirt said, but it can be a fault. As can the wiring itself (bad contacts in the connectors, short in the harness, ect). Jumpering the relay is a quick and dirty check of the pump.

 

cool thanks for the advice kuro

 

Well speaking from experience, here's my best advice: Do the diags before buying parts.
Replacing everything will eventually fix the problem, yes. And burn a hole in your wallet, making you hate your bike. A smooth, methodical diagnostic routine will show you what really needs to be replaced.

When trying to fix my flat spot I cleaned the carbs 3 times, replaced the fuel pump, replaced the fuel filter and rejetted the bike. While the pump was out and the filter was almost completely blocked, they were not the source of the problem I was trying to fix. And it definitely did not need a $129 jetkit.

The flat spot was caused by a bad air solenoid. Which I'd have found before all that if I had gone about things more methodically. Actual cost to fix the flat spot: $0

 

Yes, definitely check the contacts first before ordering. Doing the relay bypass will also tell you if the pump can actually run as well. I think the manual has you do that for a flow volume test.

How are you with meter ? Using a meter will help determine if you're getting power to the places you need it to. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Is it possible that my new slip-on can be messing up my bike. Ever since I put it on my bike went downhill. I bought it from some guy who told me it came off a CBR Stunt bike, that was all he told me. Can it mess up my bike? If its a stupid question, don't bash me!

 

A slipon shouldn't affect your bike enough to be creating the issues you're having. Odds are that you'd never notice much difference (good or bad), if any, in performance between a stock muffler and an aftermarket slipon.