How do I paint a bike?
#1
11-22-2006, 10:25 PM
How do I paint a bike?
Sorry to post with so many questions, but I am inexperienced in bike ownership and this site was a great find for information and I love reading all the information everyone gives. The bike I am getting on monday has a few scratches on the right side, but the stock paint job is otherwise good, Eventually id like to give it a custom paint job. Nothing fancy at all, basic solid colors just a new pattern. Is this something id be able to do myself? If yes would anyone be able to offer instructions on how to go about doing it? Thank you
#2
11-23-2006, 12:35 AM
RE: How do I paint a bike?
Nothing wrong with asking questions man!
I just refinished my bike, I'll tell you how I did it.
You will need:
A random orbit sander (5" disc - electric or, preferably, a pneumatic if you have a compressor that will handle it))
Couple of cans of compressed air (or an air blowing nozzle if you have a compressor - to blow out sanded material to check for air pockets)
Approximately 5-10 adhesive discs of 180 grit sandpaper (for sanding down filler - NOT TO BE USD FOR THE GENERAL SANDING OF THE PLASTIC OR TANK)
Approximately 8-10 sheets of 320 grit paper
Approximately 5-10 sheets of 600 grit paper
3 cans self-etching primer (they're taller than normal cans of spray paint)
1 can of flat black spray paint
A very well lit area for checking sanded surfaces
An old coffee can
First take all of the plastic apart and put all of your screws and fastners in the coffee cup so you don't lose them (comprehensive this guide, isn't it
Then, have fun peeling off the stickers. Use a blow dryer, or preferably, a heat gun. If you're peeling stickers that have been rashed, it's gonna be a PAIN IN THE ****! Get all you stickers off and then fill in any holes, or deep scratches. For the filler, I would use plastic weld. It bonds more securely to the plastic than bondo and it's got a strength of 3500psi - strong stuff! Make sure when you are filling holes and scratches, to fill it, then run a scraper over the top of it to ensure that it gets all the way to the bottom of the scratch as well as the sides. Let it dry, then sand it down with the orbital sander and the 180 grit paper. Make sure you don't sand too much on the plastic that hasn't been filled. It won't really hurt it if you do, you'll just have to sand it more later with a higher grit. After you've sanded the surface of the filler down to match the surface of the bike plastic, blow out the filler area with compressed air and check for air pockets - if you see any, fill 'em in and do it all over.
Once all the holes and scratches are filled, and sanded smooth - start sanding all the plastics with 320 grit. Easiest way is to simply fold the big sheet in half and tear it, fold it in half again, tear it again, then fold your remaining piece in half to sand with. You should have a piece about the size of a recipe card (4x6in.) that you can work with much easier than a big chunk of paper.
Hand sand the crap out of all the plastic now. Go over every single piece of plastic, and when you feel like you've got it all, hold the piece up parallel to a light source and look for all the areas that still reflect light or appear, "shiny." Those shiny spots are spots that need to be gone over again or sanded more. Once you have all the pieces up to par (don't worry about direction of sanding), blow them off with the compressed air (helps to have a fan sucking air out of a garage window for this), and make sure they are free of dust.
Now you're ready for your primer. I used all different sizes of boxes I had laying around to help hold a part to paint. You could even use a wire coat hanger and suspend them from the ceiling if you wanted to. If you've never sprayed before,I'm gonna give you a crash course...
Spray from the distance indicated by the cans label, but begin your spraying BEFORE you spray the piece, and stop spraying AFTER you've gone beyond the piece. In other words, it's like this: begin spraying - sweep the piece with a steady, medium speed - release the spray nozzle after going past the end of the piece. I hope you get what I'm saying.
Once you have a solid coat down, let it dry, and then get a small bowl of lukewarm water and dunk your 320 grit paper in there. Wet the plastic real good, then start wet sanding. Make sure you keep plenty of water on the paper and on the plastic. You don't have to sand hard on it like you did when using the 320 at first, but you need SOME SLIGHT PRESSURE. At first, you will
I just refinished my bike, I'll tell you how I did it.
You will need:
A random orbit sander (5" disc - electric or, preferably, a pneumatic if you have a compressor that will handle it))
Couple of cans of compressed air (or an air blowing nozzle if you have a compressor - to blow out sanded material to check for air pockets)
Approximately 5-10 adhesive discs of 180 grit sandpaper (for sanding down filler - NOT TO BE USD FOR THE GENERAL SANDING OF THE PLASTIC OR TANK)
Approximately 8-10 sheets of 320 grit paper
Approximately 5-10 sheets of 600 grit paper
3 cans self-etching primer (they're taller than normal cans of spray paint)
1 can of flat black spray paint
A very well lit area for checking sanded surfaces
An old coffee can
First take all of the plastic apart and put all of your screws and fastners in the coffee cup so you don't lose them (comprehensive this guide, isn't it
Then, have fun peeling off the stickers. Use a blow dryer, or preferably, a heat gun. If you're peeling stickers that have been rashed, it's gonna be a PAIN IN THE ****! Get all you stickers off and then fill in any holes, or deep scratches. For the filler, I would use plastic weld. It bonds more securely to the plastic than bondo and it's got a strength of 3500psi - strong stuff! Make sure when you are filling holes and scratches, to fill it, then run a scraper over the top of it to ensure that it gets all the way to the bottom of the scratch as well as the sides. Let it dry, then sand it down with the orbital sander and the 180 grit paper. Make sure you don't sand too much on the plastic that hasn't been filled. It won't really hurt it if you do, you'll just have to sand it more later with a higher grit. After you've sanded the surface of the filler down to match the surface of the bike plastic, blow out the filler area with compressed air and check for air pockets - if you see any, fill 'em in and do it all over.
Once all the holes and scratches are filled, and sanded smooth - start sanding all the plastics with 320 grit. Easiest way is to simply fold the big sheet in half and tear it, fold it in half again, tear it again, then fold your remaining piece in half to sand with. You should have a piece about the size of a recipe card (4x6in.) that you can work with much easier than a big chunk of paper.
Hand sand the crap out of all the plastic now. Go over every single piece of plastic, and when you feel like you've got it all, hold the piece up parallel to a light source and look for all the areas that still reflect light or appear, "shiny." Those shiny spots are spots that need to be gone over again or sanded more. Once you have all the pieces up to par (don't worry about direction of sanding), blow them off with the compressed air (helps to have a fan sucking air out of a garage window for this), and make sure they are free of dust.
Now you're ready for your primer. I used all different sizes of boxes I had laying around to help hold a part to paint. You could even use a wire coat hanger and suspend them from the ceiling if you wanted to. If you've never sprayed before,I'm gonna give you a crash course...
Spray from the distance indicated by the cans label, but begin your spraying BEFORE you spray the piece, and stop spraying AFTER you've gone beyond the piece. In other words, it's like this: begin spraying - sweep the piece with a steady, medium speed - release the spray nozzle after going past the end of the piece. I hope you get what I'm saying.
Once you have a solid coat down, let it dry, and then get a small bowl of lukewarm water and dunk your 320 grit paper in there. Wet the plastic real good, then start wet sanding. Make sure you keep plenty of water on the paper and on the plastic. You don't have to sand hard on it like you did when using the 320 at first, but you need SOME SLIGHT PRESSURE. At first, you will
#3
11-23-2006, 01:36 AM
#4
11-26-2006, 04:04 PM
#5
11-26-2006, 04:38 PM
#6
11-29-2006, 03:01 PM
#7
12-01-2006, 01:12 PM
RE: How do I paint a bike?
etching primer on plastic works huh....? I've used it on steel parts....
There are some flexible primers I have used for bodywork too. SEM makes the one I used...it was like $15 a can though.
I've never done a top coat...though have done some of the prep work....if you use an automotive/etching primer, do you use enamel or acrylic laquer (these are the two things I see in rattle cans).
I'd like to learn more on painting, as I am sure many here would...I'd like some light reading to do to keep me from learnign by mistakes....any hints....bueller...bueller..?
There are some flexible primers I have used for bodywork too. SEM makes the one I used...it was like $15 a can though.
I've never done a top coat...though have done some of the prep work....if you use an automotive/etching primer, do you use enamel or acrylic laquer (these are the two things I see in rattle cans).
I'd like to learn more on painting, as I am sure many here would...I'd like some light reading to do to keep me from learnign by mistakes....any hints....bueller...bueller..?
#8
12-01-2006, 04:02 PM
RE: How do I paint a bike?
You don't really need the flexible primerm just because the fairings in all honesty, shouldn't be flapping around.
I'm forgetting at the moment exactly what the topcoat I have for it is, I'm all packed up for moving and in about an hours I'm gonna start actually moving. When I get to the new place, I'll check and let you guys know what it is. The person I had guide me through what materials to use is a professional body man - so he knows what he's talking about.
Something to stay away from is fiberglass. Unless you're trying to create an entire new section that's been whackec off, you don't need it. Plastic welld is more than strong enough and much more simple to work with.
A couple of things I left out by mistake;
WD-40 is great for removing gunk left by stickers,
You might need to use your 180 on the tank to get the sticker off since it should be clear coated on - 320 would just gunk up too much and you'd go through it like crazy.
If you do use the 180 on the tank, make sure you focus on the area with the sticker only, and you'll probably end up going to bare metal, just use the 320 to feather the old paint into the metal - you don't need to take the entire tank to bare metal.
I removed the petcock and fuel cap. Tape them up real good with duct tape and seal them off. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO DUST ANYWHERE when removing that tape.
If I can think of anything else that I may have left out, I'll add it. After rereading it I noticed a few things so I added them.
Again, it's good fun work, and it makes the bike even more yours. You wouldn't believe how many heads my F3 turns these days. It's sweet and people are diggin' it - more importantly, I'm diggin' it.
Just make sure you like it and that's all the matters. Have fun!
P.S. I've had my bike sitting in the rain, against my better wishes - no choice, on 4 different occasions. I even rode hom in sleet the other day. When I walked to my bike, it was completely frozen over. As I'm chipping away at the ice, I thumb the starter (starts right up of course), and I noticed later in the day that the paint hadn't been affected one bit. Still looks like a champ.
I'm forgetting at the moment exactly what the topcoat I have for it is, I'm all packed up for moving and in about an hours I'm gonna start actually moving. When I get to the new place, I'll check and let you guys know what it is. The person I had guide me through what materials to use is a professional body man - so he knows what he's talking about.
Something to stay away from is fiberglass. Unless you're trying to create an entire new section that's been whackec off, you don't need it. Plastic welld is more than strong enough and much more simple to work with.
A couple of things I left out by mistake;
WD-40 is great for removing gunk left by stickers,
You might need to use your 180 on the tank to get the sticker off since it should be clear coated on - 320 would just gunk up too much and you'd go through it like crazy.
If you do use the 180 on the tank, make sure you focus on the area with the sticker only, and you'll probably end up going to bare metal, just use the 320 to feather the old paint into the metal - you don't need to take the entire tank to bare metal.
I removed the petcock and fuel cap. Tape them up real good with duct tape and seal them off. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO DUST ANYWHERE when removing that tape.
If I can think of anything else that I may have left out, I'll add it. After rereading it I noticed a few things so I added them.
Again, it's good fun work, and it makes the bike even more yours. You wouldn't believe how many heads my F3 turns these days. It's sweet and people are diggin' it - more importantly, I'm diggin' it.
Just make sure you like it and that's all the matters. Have fun!
P.S. I've had my bike sitting in the rain, against my better wishes - no choice, on 4 different occasions. I even rode hom in sleet the other day. When I walked to my bike, it was completely frozen over. As I'm chipping away at the ice, I thumb the starter (starts right up of course), and I noticed later in the day that the paint hadn't been affected one bit. Still looks like a champ.
#9
12-12-2006, 03:15 AM
RE: How do I paint a bike?
I'm planing on painting an F3 soon. But i've got a couple quick questions.
1) You only use the orbital sander for sanding down the plastic weld and not the entire fenders?
2) What does feathering the old paint mean? Is it to just remove parts of it and not all? Like making it rough to hold the primer?
Thanks again. I'm going out tomorrow to buy some supplys.
This DIY is realy a life saver.
1) You only use the orbital sander for sanding down the plastic weld and not the entire fenders?
2) What does feathering the old paint mean? Is it to just remove parts of it and not all? Like making it rough to hold the primer?
Thanks again. I'm going out tomorrow to buy some supplys.
This DIY is realy a life saver.
#10
12-12-2006, 01:26 PM
RE: How do I paint a bike?
When I say to feather it, I just mean to "blend" the bare metal into the painted section in a way that the two areas make a smooth transition into each other.
As far as using the orbital for all the plastic in general, I wouldn't just because it really is overkill. You could even end up with "orbital marks." If you've ever used an orbital for any period of time, you'll know what I'm talking about. If not, it looks like a bunch of tightly grouped half-circles on your surface. You end up having to go over it with 320 anyway, so you might as well just skip it.
The amount of sanding necessary to get the surface to primer-ready is minimal anyway. Plus, it makes you "one with the bike," haha. Using the orbital for general sanding in such a way is just simply overkill. Just do it by hand.
Oh yeah, take some pics, man and have fun!
As far as using the orbital for all the plastic in general, I wouldn't just because it really is overkill. You could even end up with "orbital marks." If you've ever used an orbital for any period of time, you'll know what I'm talking about. If not, it looks like a bunch of tightly grouped half-circles on your surface. You end up having to go over it with 320 anyway, so you might as well just skip it.
The amount of sanding necessary to get the surface to primer-ready is minimal anyway. Plus, it makes you "one with the bike," haha. Using the orbital for general sanding in such a way is just simply overkill. Just do it by hand.
Oh yeah, take some pics, man and have fun!