How hard is it? Is it something I don't want to mess with? and just leave it to a dealer???

 

If you have a manual, a good set of tools & accurate fliud measure, your half way there. Biggest part of the cost re:shop, is taking all the stuff off that you need to get to the forks. if you decide to go ahead yourself, just make sure you have everything you will need to do the job.
Remember that when you take out the springs, that there is the "correct" way of putting them back in. and you have to be really accurate in replacing the fork all. You have also be strict on making sure that all components are clean
If you can get a friend to give you a hand, when it comes time to put the fork caps on, will save you going mental trying to push the caps back on top of the springs and trying to turn them into the thread. (but this gets easier with practice!)
Don't be stingy, and replace everything (buy the fork kit) It will give you peace of mind.
Make sure you buy good quality oil, and this is a good time to decide on what weight oil you prefer. The standard weight is pretty light and you may want to consider a heavier oil.
I won't yank your chain, its not rocket science, but it's a job that can't be rushed, it could set you back a day (or more) and your probably going to lose skin of your knuckles. With the complexity of modern bikes, anything to do with the motor, (apart from oil changes, filters, plugs and so on) I leave to my mechanic. And I find it quite satisfying to be able to get my hands dirty doing this sort of thing. But I'm in a position where if it's starting to to get to me, I can walk away and come back to it later.
Hope this helps

 

I have done the forks on F3's and F2's too many times to count. As pacemaker said, majority of work is getting to the forks. Once you have them out, it's actually really easy if you have the proper tools and a manual. In regards to tools, you will need a manual (Honda or other), good set of ratchets, metric sockets, metric allen sockets (5mm I believe), and a fork seal driver. I recommend taking 2 days to do this. One day for the tear down and cleaning, the other for reassembly. As said before, it is very important that you keep track of how the parts came out. I lay the forks out on a towel in the order and direction they go in for reassembly. I clean my forks with solvent, it’s the same stuff used in automotive shops. Clean the parts thoroughly!!! After cleaning them, let them sit and dry. Be sure to wipe them down before assembly, there could be some residual solvent and solvent isn't the greatest for seals. As said before, don't buy cheap parts as you will most likely have to do things twice. You will need to replace the crush washer in the lower portion of the forks, the oil and dust seals, and the o rings for the caps. There are some o rings for the preload adjusters, but I have only replaced those when they show signs of leaking (You will see a dust build up around the preload adjuster). Follow the directions for reassembling and torquing the bolts to proper torque and then reinstall them in the bike. A thing about Fork seal drivers, they are a little spendy and you have to do your own forks a couple times to recover the cost.

Just a note for when you are separating the upper and lower portions of the forks. After you have drained the fluids and removed the internal parts, you will need push the upper portion into the lower and then with force ram the oil seal. This is done to drive out the oil seal. Sometimes, I have had to use a lot of force to get the oil seal out. One time I had a seal stuck so bad that I had to take a torch to the seal and heat the fork leg. I recommend starting out easy and using more force as necessary.

 

thanks everyone for replying. I think i'll have it done over the winter and spen the money on my car. I might try it later on this winter when I have a manual and the proper tools. I have to locate a break in the wires anyway...
Thanks again...