Ok, 97 cbr 600 f3.
Uni Air Filter (how is this compared to K&N)
Stock Header with Slip on pipe (delkevic shorty 9", no baffle)
Stage 1 Dynojet Jet kit

Ok so we (me and my bro) took the carbs out, cleaned them up, installed the jet kit just as instructions said;

1. Remove the carb tops and the slide springs. Remove the slide retainers by threading one of the slide
cover screws into the center of the needle retainer (Fig. A) and pull up gently. Remove the stock needles
and spacers, noting the order of assembly (Fig. C).
2. Drill the slide lift holes with the slide drill (DD #32) provided (Fig. B). Do not drill the needle hole.
3. Install the Dynojet needles on groove #3 from the top. Use all stock spacers (Fig. C). Install the small
Dynojet washers above the E-clip. Install the stock needle retainers with the Dynojet springs (DSP008).
After installing the slides in the carbs be sure to check slide movement manually before air box installation.
4. Remove the stock main jets and replace with Dynojet main jets provided. If you are running the stock
exhaust install the DJ132 main jets in the outside carburetors (1&4) and the DJ134 main jets in the inside
carburetors (2&3). If you are running an aftermarket exhaust or slip-on with a high flowing baffle, use the
DJ136 main jets in the outside two carburetors (1&4) and the DJ138 main jets in the inside carburetors (2&3).
When using a K&N filter with the stock exhaust use the DJ136 main jets and the DJ138 main jets accordingly. When using a K&N filter with an aftermarket exhaust or slip-on with a high flow baffle use the DJ140 main
jets and the DJ142 main jets accordingly.
5. Install the deceleration circuit plugs (DCO400) in the small hoses shown (Fig. D). Note: There is a hose
on each outside carburetor (1&4).
6. Locate the fuel mixture tab (Fig. E). Using the tool supplied (DT009), carefully turn the tabs clockwise
until they lightly seat and then back out 1/2 turn. NOTE: If you experience a stumble accelerating after
hard deceleration from high speed when racing, it is not uncommon to turn the mixture screws all
the way in. Follow instructions on insert DI1757 when using motorcycle for road race appications

Few questions here;
1.Ok so we did all that and used the 140 and 142 jets. Is that a correct setup for my mods?
2.The kit says you can remove the low/high speed float bowl vent tubes for race purposes. Which would be all that emissions crap. So we did just like the pics show and disconnected everything and rerouted the tubes like it showed. But there are 2 vacuum lines left open now.


One is on the "T" fitting that the four sync tubes are connected to on top of carbs, and turns into one bigger outlet that goes down to that 'emissions crap'. lol. I tried plugging it, not plugging it but doesnt seem to make a difference. (see above pic. Yes I know that there is a sync tube missing. I had it off as I was debating on getting new ones)


Other port is a long skinny one coming out of the 3rd carb(see above), underneath the carb. Which also was part of the emissions.
Do either of these need to be open??? Also the fuel tank vent tube is now open.
3. All my tuning has been with the air box OFF. Does this affect anything?
4. On to the test run... (mixture screws were turned out 1/2 a turn per kit instructions) The bike finally started up, with a very very high idle on choke. After a moment I turned it off and the bike idled for a bit, but would hesitate very badly when reving it, which it did that before just not as bad (timing need adjusted maybe?). So the engine would rev up, very fast despite it bogging when first giving it gas, with much better throttle response, but after releasing the throttle, it would very slowly idle back down, as if the throttle was stuck open (It did not stay open at all, just only thing I can think of to best describe how slow it was), so it would slowly rev back down until it idled.. No its not the linkage or anything like that. The cables are fine and the throttle snaps back like brand new. Then it just decided not to run at all. So we took it all back apart and decided check everything, do a quick spray cleaning, and put it back in. So this time around we adjusted the screws all the way in. It did not like that very well either and had the same problem with it idling back down very slowly, then eventually dying after attempts to rev it up. Also it was popping and backfiring a bit too... bout a week later when i got time again I read that someone had pretty much the same setup as mine as far as mods go and what jets they used, and they said screws were turned out 2&1/2 turns. So i tried that starting at 1 full turn out, then 2, then 2&1/2, then back to 2. Worked pretty good (listening by ear) between 2 to 2&1/2 turns. At 2 it seemed like it might be the sweet spot..
BUT.....
Still had the slow idling down issue!!! It did help lowering the idle screw down to about 1500 rpm, from 2k or higher, wherever it was. At about 1500rpm idling, it would rev real nice (still with popping in exhaust tho, sync issue?) up and back down just like it did before all this. But as soon as i raise the idle screw back up to like 2k rpm, (just to see if it did it again) it would idle down slowly like before when releasing the throttle. Actually I think it did it a couple times when i had it idled at 1500 too, just not anywhere as bad as it was though.

So... Could it be vacuum leak? Or something with that emissions crap? Or wrong setup in the jet kit(needles, jets)? Or does it just need synced?
I am really hoping that it just needs synced.
Any definitive solutions for me???

 

You disconnected the wrong stuff. The hoses they're talking about come from the low speed vents under the front of the upper cowl. There isn't any rerouting done of the hoses on the carbs themselves.

I did this on my non-Cali F3. Might help get a better idea of what needs to be done

 

Yeah thats what I did. There's actually two solenoids. The one in that diagram is connected to the other one which leads to a small round black diaphragm and that leads to the charcoal cannister. So there is going to be some open vents somewhere with or without that stuff on. But I am going to reconnect everything and start over just doing that again, and see if I did something wrong. Am I supposed to leave that second solenoid on with that diaphragm and charcoal cannister? Or evap cannister or whatever it is.

 

Ok turns out everything is good. I did not disconnect the wrong stuff. Those ports are open when removing all the emission stuff. I left that port on top plugged. Didnt seem to suck any vacuum anyways. The bottom did suck just a tiny bit, so i just used a hose to connect it to the tiny vent port on bottom of gas tank. The bigger port next to it under the tank is now plugged. I believe that the small port was plugged in to the small round black diaphragm which goes to the solenoid and evap canister. And the bigger one I believe went to the evap canister as well. Or do they need to be open?

The vent tubes were all connected/rerouted correctly. So all the emissions stuff is still removed. Decided to mess with adjustment screws once again, got it sounding real good, but still just didnt sound right. So i put the air box back on with air cleaner and bam, problem fixed! Well except when i turn the idle up(slowly goes back down to idle). But at 1500 rpm idle, it revs up real nice, hardly any hesitation, and returns back to idle no problem. Runs beautiful now!!

So is that hose i plugged in from the 3rd carb to the gas tank any problem(2nd pic)? Or should I just leave the port plugged? Or unplugged, but then it would suck dirt in. Also any idea about the 2 gas tank ports underneath by the petcock. Do those need plugged? Or is what I did just fine?

OR.. Was I supposed to leave the evap cannister on with the hoses all connected? If I did that, the second solenoid would have an open vacuum port as well.

Oh and the hesitation.. What could that be? Timing? It does just fine when just barely 'blipping' the throttle or slowly revving it. But from idle if you open it very quickly to like 3/4 or full throttle, it hesitates sometimes very badly right at the beginning. It has always done that, before I put the jet kit in.