Im having a hard time finding the info I had from my first f3. I just got another 1 and it needs a speedo. Right now it can run in first gear. As soon as I hit 20mph plus it starts to bog.

My question Is .... 1. Does anyone know the detailed air intake connection. And also the solenoid rewire that bypasses this so it won't happen. 2. Can this be bad for the system. It didn't feel bad when I had it Before. But I did notice the difference with my second f3 that had stock setup .. Stock felt smoother to me.

My first bike had this done and I took pictures so I would know for the future. However my computer crashed and I don't have the info anymore

 

As far as the bogging problems go i had the same exact problem. Soution was to ground the PINK wire going to the gauge cluster. This as i understand will tell the solenoid to stay open. The guys that do a gauge swap to the f4i (i believe) have to do this since that cluster docent have the same sensors our bikes do. Hope this helps.

This is the diagram for the ram air system, Pretty self explanitory.

 

Here is the wiring diagram for that area of the harness.

 

Thanks. The info helps. But I'm still having electrical problems. Thanks to the forum. I got really good at taking apart and rebuilding my f3 and I've done some crazy mods that I think set me out from the rest I'll post some pics with this thread Ina few. But now this problem is really getting to me. I've read all the tach speedo icm posts on here and hasn't helped me.

Here's the rundown. Riding along. Bike was fine. Tach started jumping around then gauges went out. (Bad earth? Short? Can't tell).
Took fairings off noticed some of the connector pins going to gauge ( that toutch the gauge ribbon wire ). Werent looking so good. Thing about that is I've searched the whole Internet and found something similar to those terminal connectors but not those . I can do the wiring if I found those terminals and see if it's a tach problem And start there

Here's where I think it's a bad icm. I rode the bike for the rest of that day with the gauges out ... didn't blow the fuse or have stuttering problems.
The next day got up went about 2 miles away stopped to see my girlfriend and the bike wouldn't start up again. Dead battery sound. Not a r/r problem as I have a super setup that I got from roadstercycle.com and tested the rec just to make sure. Went home with the battery. Used my noco genius to recharge 6 hrs later returned put the battery and got her home running a little off Thinking what's going on now. kind of like farts instead of a smooth exhaust sound Don't know what 2 cylinders sounds like but I'd guess it sounds like that ?? ...... I've had shorts in other bikes that just blow the fuse almost easy to tell ,but what if the fuse doesn't blow

Day 3. ( 4/7). Go downstairs notice my left turn signal stays on. Greased the terminals in the rear fine wire brushed the terminals in the left hand control fixed that problem ( might have been what caused the short.maybe moisture )) Ate something came back down with gasket for the cam chain tensioner. I've done this a couple times and once really messed it up on my second f3 so I was careful not to let the thing slam the chain and pop it off track when doing this so Im 98% sure it's done right. Started the bike ran as it did before but the popping is noticeable

The next day my sister has a job interview my truck is a pos but my bike is old Betsy so I rode her to the lirr 15 mins away. Bike sounded like crap exhaust especially popping a lot not really bogging down Maybe the guy before me grounded the pink wire and not from the gauge cluster but before that maybe from the solenoid itself? and the gauges wouldn't matter as long as the pink with green wire is grounded right? Got home fine if you consider not pushing it home battery didn't seem to be dead. And still haven't recharged it going on a week of trying to figure out what the problem is.

So I dont think it's a r/r problem.....
Need the part number for the terminals that toutch the ribbon wire to start to figure out the gauge first.
Electric greased every connection

I know what every wire does and what every color represents I'm just lost as to what to do. To get her running smooth.

 

Very important info for gauge swap

https://cbrforum.com/forum/street-fi...-122543/page4/.

 

Have you done a leak down test on the battery? What happens if you disconnect the gauges from the pigtail directly into the gauges instead of the fuse? The gauges wouldn't matter if it was COMPLETELY disconnected. But if someone before you rewired things, who knows what was/wasn't done. Do you have anyone close by that can let you use the gauges off theirs. Do you have the stock speedo on now or what kind of speedo is it?

 

okay so going through things didn't see anything rewired bad a couple replaced wires for the front light a couple repairs to the signals small repairs it looks like ive had the bike for a while so I don't think its there


theres no way I can borrow a 15 yr old gauge I found some similar terminals that would touch the ribbon wire from the gauges ill start there see if anything happens I wish it was pin connectors the contact points the harness has aren't easy to get




it was raining on and off today tomorrows supposed to be nicer didn't want any moisture in anything ill check if the battery drained its been starting right up and all I do is go around the block to see if I can get rid of that bogging feeling and I think that ride gives it a little boost every day


ill be on tomorrow with updates and pictures of the harness and what she looks like

 

ill mail the first person that can find these terminals a $20
these are the terminals that are needed to connect to the gagues circuit ribbon wire without buying a whole new harness
its been 2 weeks and still cant find a place I can just buy some
I got this pic from the Ket company but that's as far as I got its in korea


once I find these or replace the whole harness I can work my way to see where the problem could be

 

Hey George -
If your'e in Toronto, head over to Sayal Electronics and show them that picture. You could also try showing it to any auto / motorcycle mechanic.
When i was swaping to an F4i guage I cut off the entire harness and replaced both ends (f3 and f4i speedo) with two 12-pin molex housings. That way i had converted my wiring harness to something I knew was easily attainable at a local auto parts store.

Hope that helps!!

 

I agree with BioRouge, I found a pair there (Sayal) a couple years ago. Or if your in Toronto, go to Active Surplus.

I also made my own pair with a 20 pin molex connector. Was great, even was able to wire in some dedicated 12v accessory wires in there. I get the whole thing about simplicity, but with so many guides out there for a quick re-wire... better than waiting to find that perfect fit.