It does that. If you're both wheels on the ground, in gear, clutch pressed in, and you don't feel the bike pulling forward you're good. Some force is being transmitted through the transmission just by the oil spinning around and the clutch itself, it releases the transmission rather than disconnects, even when the clutch is pulled in there's still physical contact through it in some amounts.

 

Thanks Matson,
Took her for a spin around block and seemed really smooth on the changes. that judder spring works like a charm. One thing though, which in all fairness was there already before I changed the clutch - is an ever so slight knocking coming from the clutch basket, slight as it is, its enough to be noticeable and annoying. Any Ideas would be appreciated, I think I will try examining each silver plate for warping and swap them with any good ones left from my dead F2. Its actually bit worse than before I placed new friction plates. Maybe I have answered my own question. I should have gone brand new everything. Ill open her up again and check, haven't dressed her yet and with the impact wrench its a breeze now.
Any thoughts welcome.

 

When doing clutches, I replace everything. Costs more, but I don't have to charge folks twice for getting into the bike a second round. Sorry, I should have mentioned this before. It's a good soak the new fibers in 10-40 before installing them. I saw earlier where you noticed the one different clutch fiber to the rest. Did you make sure to when installing the black fiber in the proper order and to align it with the correct grooves. There are "rings" you slide onto the clutch center that have a specific direction and order (Make sure they're straight by laying them on glass if you're not replacing them). One is the spring seat and the other is the judder spring. The spring seat slides on first and the judder second. It should ever so slightly be lifting off the clutch center. The other subtle thing to watch for are the alignment marks on the clutch basket and clutch center. They need to be aligned. The last bit is the thrust washer, it's directional and marked which what should be facing out.

 

thanks Marc
redid everything last night and put back together with exacts steps and the clutch is all good and better than ever. no plates were warped just some with heat marks so I swapped them with those that were on better condition. thrust washer was wrong direction and made sure the dots aligned pressure plate and centre hub and amazingly if done properly the lifter and cable all fit and work well together. the clutch slight knocking has improved dramatically also. when I pull clutch in the knocking disappears . do you think by installing new silver plates would stop the knocking or maybe the bike is just too old 1997 f3?

 

Sorry for not getting back sooner. Been under water at work. At any rate, there is a little noise from the clutch when the bike is in neutral and idling. Not a whole, just a bit. It'll go away when you pull the clutch. I bought my bike new in 97 and it's done this from the 1st mile. 80k later, it's still doing it. My thoughts are the tranny is making the noise due to not having a load. Sounds like you've got things ship shape! I've got a good pic of the F3 tranny from when I had to rebuild mine.

 

I don`t know about "knocking" but all CBR clutches (no info on F4-> models though) tend to emit some sound when idling, although I`d describe it more as a roll or a hum than a knock...