that tool is for a different kind of nut , mine doesn't need that shape , just a 27 ml socket ,
I think the answer is an impact wrench ?

 

That was my answer. That's about the only thing that beats the staked nut.

You'll need to either use a new nut and stake it - or at least re-stake the old nut.

If you care about the Torque values, you'll need a special tool to tighten that but, it looks like:

 

finally got the bolt off from both bikes. from old f2 and and current f3. I was happy to see there were no differences and I was able to use the spring case (four pillars for springs) as I busted the one from f3 trying to get nut out. lesson learn always use a good impact wrench/ gun.

Help please.

put it all back together being care full of doing same order as I found it, only replacing the friction plates, the other silver plates were in good cond, reboted bolt and peened. tightened 4 springs all the way but not extreme tight.

now when I put cover on its like the button cannot push on the pin releasing the clutch , put it in first , power to back wheel , squeeze clutch can't stop back wheel from spinning .

the first things in the order was two metal bracelet like circles ,
one say with / angle and the other \ , I have it as

fp fp fp fp fp fp fp fp f/\

9 friction plates 8 plate and /\
have missed something ?
was there a pinion ?
is pressure plate upside down ?
it's like no mater how tight I make cable I can't press to engage clutch.

I inverted presure plate , button reached well and clutch felt nice and firm but did not stop power to back wheel .

 

With an impact in one hand and the other holding the basket, you can break the nut loose. Also goes for when tightening. If you want to get the tool, this is what I use.
EBC Clutch Tool Fits Honda CBR600 F3 1995 1998 | eBay

 

When I did mine I had a special friction plate, which is a different colour (black). this is meant to be the first one in the basket (when working outside - in, it would be the first one you see when you open the case). in you photo it looks like they are all the same? Also this first plate should be offset by a few degrees and fit in-between those empty fingers in the basket.

 

thanks Andy I do have the first friction plate in its own special slot, the rest go in the main channel/groove but the plate is just the same as the set they sold me.

I just cant get it, It feels too far away from the lifter before it begins to push the clutch.. back wheel spinning on power. (no clutch)

The manuals don't say much different, let me look if the f2 had a black disc.


oh! something new! there is a disk that came from the perfectly working F3 - the one with smaller friction pads.

could this be it?

i hope so. cant try it till tomorrow now, too noisy cranking up the compressor.


Q: with the 4 springs plate, i tried not tightening them all the way, should the springs be compressed all the way? - because not having them tight but balanced, is the only way my casing lifter button can even begin to touch the clutch rod?

 

Good luck,

Yeah that looks right,

You'll prob find it's something simple.

when I did mine I couldn't be bothered to turn the compressor on and..... well Oops.

[IMG]<a href="http://s365.photobucket.com/user/andym_011/media/IMG_0929_zpsfcgptsda.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/andym_011/IMG_0929_zpsfcgptsda.jpg" border="0" alt="Woops photo IMG_0929_zpsfcgptsda.jpg"/></a>[/IMG]

 

So sorry to hear Andy - I did same thing earlier - That's why I opened my dead F2 and hoped they hadn't change from F2 to F3.So happy when I saw was same. Hope you have a wreckers near you - good luck getting replacement man! Should the 4 bolts for springs be tightened all the way?

 

I thought as much, thought you might like to know your not the only one....
TBH I had to order one from Honda, no biggie as its a bit wet/icy here.

The 4 bolts should be tight but not to tight (12N/m) this pushes the bit that I broke away from the friction plates which lets everything spin freely. (that's hoe it works in my head anyway).

 

hi all and thanks for all the input
in the end it was ligning up clutch centre with presure plate. I can now engage the clutch.

still need a little more advice.

is there a breaking period?
I noticed on the stand and in gear and clutch in the back wheel wa ta to spin .
I can stop it with foot but as soon as I release foot wheel spins again ?

any other thing I've missed ?