CBR 600F3 1995 - 1998 CBR 600F3 Forum

clutch replacement

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Old 12-01-2010, 06:13 PM
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Default clutch replacement

I just bought my bike about a month and a half ago. I bought it from a guy that knew very little about it except he bought it used, wrecked it and didn't want it anymore. I brought it home and rode the first day about 5 miles and it performed flawlessly. After that I did an oil change and some other maint. activities. As we all do, I became more confident with the bike and started driving more aggressive. Now, a few hundred miles later, and with much more confidence I have developed a clutch slip. It seems worse at low operating temps. If I get on it after a short warm up it will slip at about 6500 rpm. If I limp it around for 10 or 15 mins, the clutch won't slip until past 8 grand or so. On rare occasions it won't slip at all. I am going to perform a clutch change SOON. I don't want to ride with clutch material floating in my oil. I have heard all kinds of advise from everybody and it all seems different. Some say go with a kevlar, some say go oem, some say replace the steels, some say not. I know I'm going to replace the springs. I also saw something alarming the other day while looking at clutches. The manufacturer said not for use with full synthetic oil. I run castrol full synthetic moto oil. Could that be my problem? All I know is that I want to put a clutch in and I want to run the same oil. Give me advise please!!! By the way, I don't want to race, just carve it up sometimes.
 
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:40 PM
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When you say you don't want to ride with clutch material floating in your oil, does that mean you have noticed it or are you just assuming that its there?
If you do have clutch material floating in your oil, then your clutch is stuffed/cactus/RS/rooted & type of oil will make bugger all difference.
Is the synthetic for bikes? as they put a lot more detergents in car oil which makes our bikes clutches (oil bathed) slip
Either way, I'd be inclined to go back to a good quality 4 stoke bike oil & see if that makes a difference.
As for what type of clutch? I'd go with OEM or a good quality non genuine supplier.
 
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Old 12-01-2010, 07:12 PM
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What weight Castrol? I checked their product info and some of their full synthetics meet Energy Conserving standards. Energy conserving oils will cause clutch slippage, synthetic or dyno.
 
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Old 12-01-2010, 07:29 PM
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no, I have not seen clutch material floating, just assuming. the oil is castrol 10w40 full synthetic motorcycle oil. Do you think that conventional oil would help?
 
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Old 12-01-2010, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by wcarnold2
no, I have not seen clutch material floating, just assuming. the oil is castrol 10w40 full synthetic motorcycle oil. Do you think that conventional oil would help?
Its a relatively cheap way to find out. And a lot easier to do than replace the clutch.
Just make sure you drain the oil really well & if the it still slips you know for certain.
 
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:25 PM
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if its castrol moto oil there is no molybdenum or graphite in it and should be ok to run in your wet clutch you just need to replace the clutches if your going to do the whole thing denis kirk has complete kits with kevlar papers,new steels,and stiffer springs for 170 or so. made by EBC your clutch can handle synthetic but it cant have any castor oil in it. per hondas el manuel. as long as its sf/sg certified. and you can use auto oil as long as it dosnt have the energy conserving stamped on the rating circle on the back of it.
 
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:04 PM
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The only time you need to replace the steel bands is if bent or turned blue. I can tell you from experiance if they are blue in spots they are bent. Not all the EBC clutch kits can be used with synthetic oil. Granted I'm using the race kit and it said not to use full synthetic oil becsuse it will slip. Changing out the springs also makes the world of differance. The stock ones are very weak compared to the aftermarkets. They do that to make easier for new riders and make it more forgiving.
 
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Old 02-05-2011, 10:37 PM
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Default great news

well i did a half a$$ed oil change to conventional oil (rotella 15-40) and no filter change and it made an immediate difference. Even semi-cold there was no slippage before 7k. After a short warm up, I got one minor slip at 8500. After proper warm up, I got no slip at all during normal riding. I'm sure i need a clutch, but I feel if I ride like a sane person, I can limp this one for a good while longer. I am going to do a proper change and I think I will be good for a while. That is a relief. Good to be riding again.
 
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