gotcha. i'll check on that asap. how will i know if they are adjusted equally?

 

so i have my carbs open again and all my floats exposed. when you refer to a 'sticky' float, will it actually stick somewhere in it's range of movement? none of them do. i don't know exactly what i'm looking for :/ damn. any help? just found that my vacuum line between the top of carbs 2/3 was somehow jammed between the two fittings, so it was open. maybe this was my problem? i'm putting it all back together now to find out. also, I can't seem to get my butterflies to close 100%. they all remain open with maybe a 1mm gap. is this ok? they're all open the same amount and open/close in sync.



okay, just started it back up after finding the line to be incorrectly connected. now it runs much much much better, but it's still lagging when i try to drop revs. it still won't go up past about 7k rpm then it starts to sound like it's choking up a bit. are the butterflies supposed to close 100%?

 

If they were closed all the way, you wouldnt be able to hold idle. The throttle stop screw (left side under fuel petcock) will let you adjust idle and therefore the gap of the butterflies as one unit.

 

LOL
I was watching that write-up almost fell in the floor when it goes "dont use plastic cups" I knew exactly what they meant, my friend and i used a plastic plate when we cleaned the carbs on his Ninja, turned out nicely, lol

 

yeh, I wasn't sure about that one, that's why I asked. What else would make it not want to rev up or down? I really don't have the money to take it to a shop right now, but it's looking like that's my best bet. [sm=headbang.gif]

 

Last question on this post, I promise. ha the heater tubes (the two running from the cooling system through the back of the carbs) running to the carbs, will it run right if they are backwards?