1997 F3, 19000. This morning was the first time it got really cold down here (New Orleans). I ran the battery dead trying to start the bike. It would turn over and catch, sputter for a sec or two and die. I always put the choke on about 3/4, and have to barelly crack the throttle as it sputters. As soon as it smoothes out , 5-10 secs, i'm golden. But this morning was bad. I jumped the bike off and it still gave me hell but did eventually run. I think it will be better once I move into my house in 2 weeks and it can stay in the garage, but right now its under an overhang under a cover.

I know this can't be normal, but I don't know what to do. I've had the bike for 3 months and it runs great once it starts. I left the bike for 2 weeks came back and it cranked right up. But as soon as its cold, its crap. I've even thought about pointing one of my propane space heaters at it to warm it up.

So is this a real problem, or normalish. Also I read about the cam chain tensioner thing, is it a good idea to switch over to the manual tensioner, and how can I see if the previous owner already did it?


Ryan

 

i have the same exact problem..
my bike doesnt want to start when cold..

n from researching heres what i found out needs to be done..
tune up
change plugs, wires, and air filter at the least...
also sometimes the recitifier dies and doesnt charge your battery enough to start the bike..

 

did u kick it? lol j/k the cct should be on your engine it will be visible... if your looking at your bike its on the left hand side on the back side of your engine... wish i could explain it more but... just search it in the forums ur likely to find a forum bout itz

 

The CCT is protruding from the top-left of your clutch cover at about a 45 degree angle. It will be behind some wires, but you can clearly see it. The top of it looks like you could use a phillips screw driver on it - but that's not what it's for. In any case, if that's what you see, it's OEM.

If you see something else in the same place I described, but it looks like a large bolt sticking out - that's been replaced, that's a manual CCT.

As far as your bike, it's not good to give any throttle when the choke is engaged, you could flood it very easily meaning more cranking time and probably short battery life. Leave the fuel off, give it about 3/4 choke and try that. Now, once you do get it started, you can give it a TINY bit of throttle, I'm talking barely moving your wrist. That might get it going a bit so you can walk away from it and stay running. You give it more than just a bit though, and it will kill it, and possibly flod it also.

Give your bike a basic tuneup. Plugs, air filter (just get a K&N) even fluids. If you can find some thicker-than-OEM plug wires, ****** those up. They're gonna be more expensive but they'll help in the cold.

Actually, if you do find some, lemme know... I'ma looking myself!

P.S. You'll have to take your ride sight fairing off (just remove hex bolts and drop it down to inspect for CCT).

 

when i said i give it gas i meant i basically roll the throttle til i feel the cable tighten. barelly turn it. and I only do that when it starts to run, but is sputtering. clears up and runs fine. I'm going to try to get some plugs tomorrow, and maybe some wires.

Thanks alot guys,
Ryan

Also do you always turn your fuel off when you park? I always leave mine on and thats what the dealer told me. They said I didn't need to turn it off.

 

starter fluid.

 

No, you don't need to turn it off. The float valves in the carburetor float bowls stop the fuel from flowing when they fill up, so it is not necessary to turn the fuel off. Unless you have malfunctioning (stuck) floats and there's always puddles of fuel under your bike when you park it, THEN I would turn the fuel off.