Is there a bigger or better master cylinder that fits on these bikes? I know the SS braided lines are a good start, but if there is another bigger and stronger master cylinder that'd be cool too. Front and rear. I am thinking this because I ride 2 up almost every weekend, and commute on the highway every day I can, so better braking at high way speeds and with extra weight would be awesome.

Also, what are people running for brake rotors? I have replaced OEM ones a couple times with used and I still have pulsating in my front end. Are these any good? Honda Front Brake Rotor Disc CBR 600 F3 Year 1995 1pair | eBay

Or is there something else out there I can look at or should i Just go with OEM. Or maybe have another reason for pulsating under braking. I have brand new pads and those didnt help either

 

I have stock brakes but with braided hoses and race pads, so far no problems with pulsing. It's a track bike so they get used hard.

From that and the fact that yours pulse after replacement I'd start looking at the wheel alignment where the disks mount and also if the calipers are sticking.

I wouldn't trust chinese parts for disk rotors. I'd go with a name brand that has a reputation they care about. Also a name brand doesn't want a law suit in any country saying they're brake parts fail.

 

Ianp5uk is spot on with what I would be looking at. There's only a couple of points
that can cause "pulsing". Warped rotor, out-of balance/warped wheel, bad wheel
bearings or a caliper is hanging. If you've already explored rotors, that leaves the
others mentioned. Do a search for the diagnostics on these areas and see if anything
stands out.

Easiest to check is the caliper hanger-pins. Look at the little accordian, rubber boots
on the calipers. If they're dry the calipers are probably not able to 'float' around the
rotors and follow they're movement. That forces the pistons to react to them instead.

Check them and the rest, and get back to this post and we can explore further from there.

Ern

 

When I changed the pads, the calipers were moving freely. Pretty easily in and out. I probably should have greased them though to be safe. As for the disc, I really do need to get a micrometer and check to see. The discs I got were used so they could be bent/warped. I was told not to have them cut.

The bike was dropped by the PO at about 50 mph. The axle is a little beat up looking but it goes in and out pretty smooth. I don't know about the wheel bearings though. What about the head bearing? I am still leaning a little towards the discs because unless my mind is playing tricks on me which could be as I'm now trying to figure this out, it seems like the brakes let loose for a split second then grab again when I'm going really slow- 5 mph or so. It just is driving me nuts. I am slowly rebuilding the bike so I will probably end up replacing the wheel bearings anyways too. As for the tire, it's new and was supposed to be balanced but it could be off I suppose. I think it may have pulsed before I got the new tire too but I can't remember now

 

You can use a piece of heavy plate glass or granite/marble to check run-out with a feeler guage.
It will be 2x the value of the biggest guage, that will slip between the rotor and the glass,
anywhere around the rim.

It shouldn't be the head-bearings, you'll get a klunk sound not a shake.

Lay the axle on a flat surface and roll it (like you would do a pool-cue.

If it's slippage of the pad-rotor interface, look for galling on the pads. (metal smears).

Hope this helps, Ern

 

I don't see any galling. Atleast I don't think so. That almost looks like melted pads right? When checking the rotors, how do you get them to lay flat with the rivets? I will check the axle when I check the rotors. Is it really that bad to have rotors turned? I don't get why they are so expensive

 

Yes, your description of galling is correct.

The rotors can only be turned down a certain amount or it will weaken them.
On the F3 the front/rear rotors start life at 4.8-5.2mm and can only be turned down to 4.0mm. The maximum runout is .30 mm. This is from the Clymer manual.

"How do you get them to lay flat with the rivets?", Hah! good point!
I wasn't paying attention and blew the call, sorry. ;-)

Last pair I checked, with the procedure mentioned, weren't 'full-floaters' (That would be my old 78 KZ650CSR). I've since then, aquired a dial-indictar with a magnetic-base,
so that's what I use now.

I like to mention budget alternatives to various procedures, since not everyone has access to some of the more specialty tools. Usually, I'm better at suggesting appropriate alternatives.

Ern

 

the best way to check rotor run out is with a dial indicator. if one is not available, you can eyeball it if its bad enough. pick up the front end so it hangs, and slowly spin the wheel. look closely where the pad touches the rotor. you may be able to see the gap between them change, hear a difference in the dragging, or see the caliper moving a little. you will also be able to see if your wheel is bent and feel if the bearings are loose or bad.

demon

 

Not a problem ern! i always appreciate the help. I was just curious cus when i went to check them last time they were wobbly haha.

I need to get a dial indicator. I am curious if something else is bent though. Maybe even the front forks since it did go down? When the tire was mounted and balanced wouldn't the shop have been able to say the wheel was bent? I mean there isn't excessive weights on the rim, but then again im not sure how good the shop was either. One rotor was so bad before i changed them that it was touching the inside of the caliper, it was pulsating pretty good then. But it still is now and i was told these rotor were straight and never dropped from the seller on ebay. Not that this says much since it is ebay, but i just am wondering if something else is bent.

Now, say something is bent, IE axle or wheel or forks, how can I narrow it down? Specificly how can I tell where the bend is coming from if that makes sense? Just tear it all down and check it all? Im guessing the wheel bearings will just sound dry.