Battery Problem or Regulator/Rectifier????
Hello All,
Thanks guys for answering my other posts. Based on some of your inputs, I tried to test my battery with a voltmeter. I have the results and again, based on reading your responses, I believe that the problem is with my battery and not the Regulator/Rectifier. But I may be wrong, so I need your help.
Here are the results from my test:
1. OFF Mode (I tested the battery when the bike was initally off) -> 12.42 (First Reading); 12.42 (Second Reading)
2. ON Mode (I tested the battery when the bike was on @ 4000 RMP) -> 14.15 (First Reading); 14.10 (Second Reading)
3. OFF Mode (I tested the battery after turing off) -> 12.53 (First Reading); 12.39 (Second Reading)
4. OFF (DRAINED) Mode (I wanted to check if my battery gets charged when I drive it, so I left the headlights on for a while and tested the batter) -> 11.76 (First Reading) 11.67; (Second Reading)
5. ON Mode (I turned the bike on, drove for a while) -> 14.16 (First Reading @ 4000 RPM); 12.22 (Second Reading @ 1500 RPM)
6. OFF Mode (I turned the bike off for a final reading) -> 12.46 (First Reading); 12.33 (Second Reading)
Guys, I know this is a little confusing, I have tried to explain as much as possible. Please let me know if you think the problem is with the battery or the regulator/rectifier.
Just to re-iterate my problem, a couple of times my bike just wouln't turn on and I had to use jump-starter to get it on.
Based on the results above, please let me know what you think could be the problem.
Appreciate your feedback. Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Thanks guys for answering my other posts. Based on some of your inputs, I tried to test my battery with a voltmeter. I have the results and again, based on reading your responses, I believe that the problem is with my battery and not the Regulator/Rectifier. But I may be wrong, so I need your help.
Here are the results from my test:
1. OFF Mode (I tested the battery when the bike was initally off) -> 12.42 (First Reading); 12.42 (Second Reading)
2. ON Mode (I tested the battery when the bike was on @ 4000 RMP) -> 14.15 (First Reading); 14.10 (Second Reading)
3. OFF Mode (I tested the battery after turing off) -> 12.53 (First Reading); 12.39 (Second Reading)
4. OFF (DRAINED) Mode (I wanted to check if my battery gets charged when I drive it, so I left the headlights on for a while and tested the batter) -> 11.76 (First Reading) 11.67; (Second Reading)
5. ON Mode (I turned the bike on, drove for a while) -> 14.16 (First Reading @ 4000 RPM); 12.22 (Second Reading @ 1500 RPM)
6. OFF Mode (I turned the bike off for a final reading) -> 12.46 (First Reading); 12.33 (Second Reading)
Guys, I know this is a little confusing, I have tried to explain as much as possible. Please let me know if you think the problem is with the battery or the regulator/rectifier.
Just to re-iterate my problem, a couple of times my bike just wouln't turn on and I had to use jump-starter to get it on.
Based on the results above, please let me know what you think could be the problem.
Appreciate your feedback. Thanks in advance.
Regards,
how long after the first reading did you take the second reading..
The other test would be to check the voltage, start the bike, check it again, then go for a 15 or 20 minute ride to get the regulator warm, and then come back, and check the voltage at 4000RPMs again, and again at 1500RPMs, then shut the bike off and check it after like 15 minutes of not running...
Being that the voltage reading you are getting at 1500 rpms is lower than the battery voltage with the bike off leads me to believe that the regulator is failing.. I've seen this on several 600RR's and a couple F4i's last season.. so.. let's see what happens when its hot..
please note that at idle, the voltage usually won't be higher than with it off, but on my bike, at 1500rpms i can see the lights get a bit brighter than at idle.
The other test would be to check the voltage, start the bike, check it again, then go for a 15 or 20 minute ride to get the regulator warm, and then come back, and check the voltage at 4000RPMs again, and again at 1500RPMs, then shut the bike off and check it after like 15 minutes of not running...
Being that the voltage reading you are getting at 1500 rpms is lower than the battery voltage with the bike off leads me to believe that the regulator is failing.. I've seen this on several 600RR's and a couple F4i's last season.. so.. let's see what happens when its hot..
please note that at idle, the voltage usually won't be higher than with it off, but on my bike, at 1500rpms i can see the lights get a bit brighter than at idle.
judging by that i would say it is the regulator. it is hard to say though cause you were getting a charge in all of you tests excpt for the last one no matter what you should allways see 13 or more volts. another thing is you battery is only at like 75 % while it is sitting 12.65 is 100%. so the other test i would try is a load test. what you do is put your meter on the bike and crank it over if you have a good meter it will respond fast enoughf to see the voltage drop. 9.64 volts is what you want to see if it is higher that is good but anything under that is not so try that and let us know what you find out. that voltage load test is the concrete test for a battery. that is what i did at my shop before i got a load tester i just used my meter if at all possible do it cold it is a better test for the battery and your bike will crank longer before it fires and that will make it easier for you too. remember if it is LESS THAN 9.64 get a new battery
Well.. that's sorta why Ive been concentrating on the regulator, if it's not bad, then the battery is.
I'm not 100% sure that the starter test is an accurate indicator of a bad battery either..
I'm not 100% sure that the starter test is an accurate indicator of a bad battery either..
ya the starter test is it is a load test i have done that test at least one hundred times and when i got my load tester and would do that i would get the same results as my cranking test because that is all the battery is really for is the starter yes it is to run lights and stuff too but its main job is to store energy for starting. no offence down force but i have been in the automotive and motorcycle feild for 8 years now so that being said every book and everything i have been taught says when a load is being put on a battery and it drops below 9.64 volts the battery is bad end of story and i doubt that he has a load tester at his disposal and definatlly dose not want to go to autozone or somewhere like that to use on cause as soon as they see it is a bike their going to freak out and mess something up. but yes the started pulls the same load as a load tester dose he just has to have a good meter to get it to work i have a 400 dollar snap on meter so it dose maybe the cheaper ones dont but that works for me when i an working on the weekend to pick up extra cash know what i mean
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Gearloose
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Feb 22, 2008 01:32 PM




