CBR 600F3 1995 - 1998 CBR 600F3 Forum

Suzuki Rectifier/Regulator problem?

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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 11:25 AM
  #1  
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Default Suzuki Rectifier/Regulator problem?

Had something weird happen to me yesterday. I went for a ride and bike was running just perfect. I get home and stop to check my mail. I take the key out to check the mail and then when I put it back in and turn it on I get the red light low oil indicator, green neutral and head light. I hit the start and the bike goes completely dead. I prayed to the Honda gods and came out later on and push started it to have it work.

I suspected it was a bad battery or R/R since it seems to happen once the bike gets all hot and bothered (from being stuck in Atlanta traffic) and okay when it is cool.

I took it to Batteries plus and the battery turned out perfect. 100% charge and 100% something else. He said my CCA is suppose to be 120 but performing at 180.

Now it did start up in the morning just fine and when I left batteries plus (and a fedex kinkos shortly before). But I drove about 10+ miles (in some traffic) to run to school and when I left there after being there for 10minutes it did it again. I got the light to come back on and I push started it off. I got back to my apartment and after I turned it off I tried to turn it on and it did it again. When I hit the ignition after it dies the neutral light comes on very faint while I have the ignition depressed.

I replaced the OEM R/R with a Suzuki (I think 2003) GSXR750 and put it on just like I saw on here.


I'm going to find someone who knows how to use a ohmmeter because I have no clue how those bastards work. What should they check for when checking the R/R?

Any help is appreciated.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 12:36 PM
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Sounds like what my bike does right now.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Asmittie84
Had something weird happen to me yesterday. I went for a ride and bike was running just perfect. I get home and stop to check my mail. I take the key out to check the mail and then when I put it back in and turn it on I get the red light low oil indicator, green neutral and head light. I hit the start and the bike goes completely dead. I prayed to the Honda gods and came out later on and push started it to have it work.

I suspected it was a bad battery or R/R since it seems to happen once the bike gets all hot and bothered (from being stuck in Atlanta traffic) and okay when it is cool.

I took it to Batteries plus and the battery turned out perfect. 100% charge and 100% something else. He said my CCA is suppose to be 120 but performing at 180.

Now it did start up in the morning just fine and when I left batteries plus (and a fedex kinkos shortly before). But I drove about 10+ miles (in some traffic) to run to school and when I left there after being there for 10minutes it did it again. I got the light to come back on and I push started it off. I got back to my apartment and after I turned it off I tried to turn it on and it did it again. When I hit the ignition after it dies the neutral light comes on very faint while I have the ignition depressed.

I replaced the OEM R/R with a Suzuki (I think 2003) GSXR750 and put it on just like I saw on here.


I'm going to find someone who knows how to use a ohmmeter because I have no clue how those bastards work. What should they check for when checking the R/R?

Any help is appreciated.
lol you cable tied it on?!
 
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jpanside@gmail.com
lol you cable tied it on?!
That was temp for when I first wired it because the holes don't match to the Honda holes. However it never got fixed but it is held in well by the body work.

I'm going to a friend's house today becuase he knows how to read a multimeter because he is majored in mechanical engineering and technology. Hopefully we can fine the problem there. And hopefully it'll be a cheap one.

Here is vid of the problem
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfCQW***kSc
 

Last edited by Asmittie84; Sep 10, 2010 at 09:34 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 09:27 AM
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It seems like you have a short somewhere.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 12:46 AM
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Don't think it's a short. Sounds like the RR, but test the everything in the charging system (RR, Stator, and Bat). There is a nice guide from Electro Sport for trouble shooting. They also have another guide for testing the diodes of the RR in another guide. These are GREAT tools for troubleshooting these things. Also do the diode test when the RR is hot (use gloves) because it may work fine when cold, but fail when hot.

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/

http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ting-guide.pdf

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pd...ng-diagram.pdf
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 01:11 AM
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Id stick with Honda OEM bro. Probably wouldnt have this problem. It probably just runs on different specifications, it is from a Suzuki and its on a Honda.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by OutlawF4
Id stick with Honda OEM bro. Probably wouldnt have this problem. It probably just runs on different specifications, it is from a Suzuki and its on a Honda.
Not true. The Honda units are VERY weak. And for 99% of applications, a R/R is a R/R. Just different pin outs. If you know what wires to put where, you can get any R/R to work. I had a ZX10 unit on my bike. Mosfet type versus shunt type. Look that up if curious. Its much more durable and it barely gets warm under max load.

Think of it this way...

1.) ALL 12 V batteries need around 14v (DC) for charging. So ALL R/R's are made to put out that voltage. Universal output.
2.) Almost all motorcycle stators put out about 60V 3 phase AC. Universal input.

Just about all R/Rs are designed to convert 60V +/- AC and turn it into a steady 14V +/- DC

Its like an O2 sensor. With little exception, they're all the same.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by thedudeman
Mosfet type versus shunt type. Look that up if curious. Its much more durable and it barely gets warm under max load.
Couldn't of said it better myself. The original OEM RR is woefully inadequate because it is always running at or near it's max capacity (shunt). Even after Honda started using the redesigned RR with an aluminum casing, they are still pieces of $hit.
I converted the RR on my F3 over to an 09 R1 RR (mosfet). I also increased the size (dropped 1 gauge size) of the wire in the harness from the stator plug to the RR plug and changed out the plug between the stator and harness. I haven't had a problem yet. Granted, it's been 9 months, but I'm not showing any signs of heat damage to the stator plug or RR plug. I hvae idled my way through PLENTY of DC traffic this summer. I've also noticed that my head light doesn't dim when at an idle.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 11:39 PM
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Ive never had a problem on my bike, its Oem Honda. On a F4. Sounds like you guys got it figured out. Gotta go ride, bye.
 
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