took off tank and sure enough there was a carb line disconnected cause it to cut out once reconnected ran fine, now the new problem is after i let it run and get to a normal temp on the right side of the motor only on right side theres a loose change sound coming from the top side of motor, when i rev it up cant really here it only when idling , i know its not knock sounds just like loose change im not sure if the timing chain is on that side but my buddy thinks timing chain needs to be adjusted, if it is on that side im still researching but just seing if anyone exper. really want to work out kinks cuz now id have to replace fairings thats of course more money bringing my total put into the bike more then im wanting to . appreciate it

 

No, it's your cam chain tensioner. You have described it perfectly. Let me guess, around 20K + miles on the bike?

Cam chain tensioner. An aftermarket, "manual cam chain tensioner," runs about $50. Installation is a snap (I even have a decent"how-to" onhere... search for it) and you'll rid yourself of the problem forever.

 

i just replaced the motor about 2500mi ago ive been riding it hard been trying to get my moneys worth thats why i went down i figure i aint riding hard unless i fall , not saying i wanted to fall or that it is smart how i think. i was told the motor only had 6000 or so miles on it i saw a pic of the bike the supposed motor came from. its great that your able to know that it is the tensioner but how much time do i have before it will do damage is it a must fix immd. or can wait little to save money even though its only 50.00$????
I APPRECIATE THANKS MAN

 

Fix it. An engine jumping timing can be a very, very bad thing.

 

just had a question on the CCT and valve timing for the f3 engines. Is it an interference engine, where if the valves hang down on a compression or exhaust stroke the piston will hit the valve? just curious.


And i guess that would be one of the bad things you are talking about :-P

 

i read some posts about the cct and seems preety easy , but before i get a new one from what i understad the original is self adjusting , or ??? cuz it said the manuel one has to be done periodaclly. so if you by the manuel one then every time you here that awful noise you have to get in there and adjust it. why didnt honda just put a manuel one in from the start? appreciate the help kidcrenshaw good lookin out .

 

When they say periodically, that means around every 20K-30K miles. That's a long time. Also - you're no good adjusting the OEM CCT. It has already failed, meaning adjusting it will only work until you give it gas again and let off the throttle.

What is happening, is that tensioner has pressure on it from the spring in the adjustment, keeping tension on the cam chain. That spring has now failed, that's why you only hear it when idling. When there is natural tension on the cam chain (throttleing the engine), it's not rattling because it's not loose. It has tension on it. When you back off the throttle, that tensioner is suppsed to spring back into place, keeping the correct amount of tension on the cam chain. That spring has failed. You simply need to buy a new one.

The OEM manual ones don't have springs. They are bolt positioned, nut-locked into place. There are no moving parts after tightening into place. Just make sure you get a gasket with your new CCT, some don't come with one and you'll need one, sealer isn't enough.

Like I said, I've got a write-up on here, in the F3 section I believe. Just do a search for it when you're ready. Super simple.

 

That's the burning question.

Dick Mann sputtered his way across the finish line at the late-60's Isle Of Mann. His OEM CCT failed. That was 40 years ago... lol!