Which order will produce the best results. I have a lot of time before I need to or will be able to do it, just be nice to have a debate going on what will produce the best results.

 

Honda manual says Sync first before AF adjustment.

 

Sync first. Adjusting the AF won't affect the sync. But if the carbs aren't synced it'll throw off tuning the AF.

Need to have everything working together to get true results to see what needs to be tweaked

 

ok, the guy at the shop said to adjust carb one to maximum idle, reset the idle to stock, go to carb two, rinse and repeat lol. Is that in the right ballpark for tuning, or is there a better way? Also, and this is specifically for idodirt and his carb syching trick, my bike only has three ports, where there should be one on carb one there is a screw, is this wrong, or was this how they came, and what am I supposed to put in there?

 

If you actually want to adjust the AF mixture, then you really need to download the shop manual. Go to StephyGee.com to get a copy. It's a little more complex that what he said if you want it done right.

You're right, there is a screw in one of them. I ordered a couple of extras's from Honda to replace the screw and put them on each of our F3's as well as my 1000F.

 

Ya it read like a very glossed over version of doing an idle drop. Is the method described in the manual? I wiped my system and haven't re-dled it yet.

http://www.musclecross.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=113

Found this a while back and it survived the wipe in an old backup. Near the bottom is a somewhat better description of idle drop tuning.

Hey IDoDirt, you mind sharing a pic of the intake ports to connect the sync tool to? I'm delaying doing it myself cause I keep finding new things to do first. So I've got time to ask for pics to see where I'm gonna be attaching the hoses

 

K, just look at the thread I had about my thermostat valve, he has a picture of those there circled in red. I read the manual, but wouldn't the manual tell you how to adjust it for emissions? I've heard a lot of people say they came in lean as a snake, I don't want to be readjusting it just get to it back to that condition again, so would the shop's advice be better, or does the Honda manual explain how to do it for the most power and best running, or is it still to sneak by emissions?

 

Thanks. Got the pic I need

Reading the manual (I downloaded it again), it looks like the procedure is essentially the same. Just with more details and a bit finer adjustment.

IDoDirt has a deeper understanding of carbs than I do. I know what's right or wrong. He knows why its right or wrong. But from my knowledge, lean / rich conditions exist at different throttle positions. So the question would be where were they talking about with it being "lean as a snake" part? Because the jets and needle positions will be what affect the condition under throttle. The idle drop is really just adjusting the AF at idle and low rpm cruise.

 

Now this is great. People here are starting to get a grasp on what's going on and why. Great stuff here, I love it. Yes, it's for when idling, as well as starting. The slow jets and main jets take care of the rest of the throttle area. The only way to adjust those is by replacing them, or adjusting the height of the needle in the main jet.

 

so the air fuel screws don't adjust how rich or lean the bike is in general, just at idle? Also, my bike had the air filter go dry under the "watchful" riggghhht, eyes of the previous owner, so I'm cleaning the carbs. What I'm wondering is since there is dirt in the air box am I going to also want to clean the brass air jets on the other side of the carbs, and how would I go about doing that since they're fixed?