You can get it professionally done for around 70-100 bucks or you can make your own syncing tool for about 30-50 bucks.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-mechanical-40/how-carb-sync-balance-many-pictures-80614/

thats the expensive one. There is a simpler (cheaper) version that uses gravity as a vacuum and balancer instead of meters but i couldn't find the thread.

 

You'll need a special tool to sync the carbs and you really don't need to take it to a shop. If you took the carbs apart... then you can sync them. I have the motion pro sync and it worked really well. By the way, I have some spare part for the carbs. I've got spare floats and screws. You can have what you need, just would have to pay for shipping. I don't know if I'll have the screws though. If I do, you're more than welcome to use them. Shouldn't be very much since the parts don't weigh anything.

 

Agreed with everything said thus far.

When, assuming you take them apart from eachother, you are finished assembling them, you want all 4 butterflies to open at the exact same specification. You want to use the 3 screws to adjust them by eye. one screw you'll see will adjust butterfly 1 to 2 and the other screw on the far opposite side is for butterfly 3 to 4, with the middle screw synchronizing 1&2 to 3&4. Do this by eye so that you can START the bike. IF they are too far out of sync, you might not be able to start it and therefore cannot continue with the mechanical synchronization using the vacuum gauges (whether homemade or purchased).

I use MOTIOn PRO Sync PRO carb tuner off ebay. Expensive, but i've synced mine numerous times as well as other bikes...

 

Unfortunately, I haven't even gotten to that point yet. I got everything apart, and it was all pretty clean. . .I cleaned it all out anyway with carb cleaner and compressed air, making sure everything was flowing through the hoses and jets OK. One of the float needles was stuck down, so I tried cleaning it a few times, but I could never get it out. Bought a new float valve and put it in, but now I notice that the other floats only come back about halfway, compared to the brand new one. I also replaced the rubber tubing that connects the carbs to the engine, as it was really hard and cracking. All of the internal gaskets looked great, so not an issue. I also replaced the air and fuel filters, just because I was in there.

I put it all back together, and I still have the exact same problem. I can get it to start for a couple of seconds with the choke on and spraying starter fluid right into the intakes, but it dies once it burns all that up. I opened the pots and plenty of gas flows out, so it's getting in there, and I can feel plenty of suction from the intakes. . .

 

Update:

Took it all apart, and the slow jets were clogged. I didn't pull these out the first time around. This is pretty much the only thing that makes sense, so I bet thats it. They're soaking now.

 

Yep, totally took care of it. thanks for all the help guys!

Now that the thing is running, where should I have it idling at (I don't have the owners manual)? It seems to be happy at around 1500, but I have no where that is on the scale.

 

1200 +- 100rpm as per the manual

I like mine @ 1100