Won't idle and throttle doesn't do anything
I am having a bear of a time with my 92 cbr600 f2. Bought it as a project with missing parts. All parts are now there and have replaced rectifier, coils, battery, air filter and have cleaned the carbs.
The bike turns over and starts to fire but doesn't idle by itself and on the rare occurrence it does start to run the throttle does not rev the engine. I have an aftermarket straight through exhaust and have adjusted my air mixture screws from the factory 2 1/2 all the way to 5 turns out.
What am I missing?
The bike turns over and starts to fire but doesn't idle by itself and on the rare occurrence it does start to run the throttle does not rev the engine. I have an aftermarket straight through exhaust and have adjusted my air mixture screws from the factory 2 1/2 all the way to 5 turns out.
What am I missing?
I am having a bear of a time with my 92 cbr600 f2. Bought it as a project with missing parts. All parts are now there and have replaced rectifier, coils, battery, air filter and have cleaned the carbs.
The bike turns over and starts to fire but doesn't idle by itself and on the rare occurrence it does start to run the throttle does not rev the engine. I have an aftermarket straight through exhaust and have adjusted my air mixture screws from the factory 2 1/2 all the way to 5 turns out.
What am I missing?
The bike turns over and starts to fire but doesn't idle by itself and on the rare occurrence it does start to run the throttle does not rev the engine. I have an aftermarket straight through exhaust and have adjusted my air mixture screws from the factory 2 1/2 all the way to 5 turns out.
What am I missing?
Mixture screws ONLY adjusts idle mixtures. Makes no difference after you crack open throttle.
Yeah, need to disassemble carb more down to every single last nut, bolt and individual component. If it can be taken apart further, do it. Scrub everything with brushes and PEA-based fuel-system cleaner. Spray “carb cleaner” no longer work due to removal of chlorinated compounds. Might as well use pee which will work better because it has ammonia.
Don’t forget to scrub out secret hidden passages inside carb body. It’s areas you can’t see that hides worse clogs. Some of those passages have right-angle turns that traps stuff easily.
Ultrasonic soak everything. Micro soda-blast all pieces before re-assembly. Replace ALL rubbers: fuel-rail O-rings, float valves, float bowl seals, pilot-screw O-ring, even slide-diaphragms (this may be your problem).
Set float levels and verify with external wet test. Sync with manometers when installed.
Many, many people have had to pull their carbs 4-5x for ever deeper cleaning before it was sufficiently clean back to factory-fresh levels. One guy had to pull them 10x!!!
I recommend doing full-restoration job from beginning so you only have to pull them just once.
Yeah, need to disassemble carb more down to every single last nut, bolt and individual component. If it can be taken apart further, do it. Scrub everything with brushes and PEA-based fuel-system cleaner. Spray “carb cleaner” no longer work due to removal of chlorinated compounds. Might as well use pee which will work better because it has ammonia.
Don’t forget to scrub out secret hidden passages inside carb body. It’s areas you can’t see that hides worse clogs. Some of those passages have right-angle turns that traps stuff easily.
Ultrasonic soak everything. Micro soda-blast all pieces before re-assembly. Replace ALL rubbers: fuel-rail O-rings, float valves, float bowl seals, pilot-screw O-ring, even slide-diaphragms (this may be your problem).
Set float levels and verify with external wet test. Sync with manometers when installed.
Many, many people have had to pull their carbs 4-5x for ever deeper cleaning before it was sufficiently clean back to factory-fresh levels. One guy had to pull them 10x!!!
I recommend doing full-restoration job from beginning so you only have to pull them just once.Last edited by dannoxyz; Mar 16, 2024 at 03:00 PM.
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