i sometimes have this situation as well.. and i keep tire pressure at 42 for the rear but ill drop it and see what happens.. as for the carbs... use some seafoam in the gas in a vaccum line and in the oil but not long for the oil for obvious reasons, but it helped me out alot

 

thanks,
not sure what in a vacuum line means but I'll look it up. I put some Lucas Deep Clean in the tank, I was timid with the amount though, I'll try Seafoam next, then I'll just take it apart.

 

The rear chock could be worn out - it was on mine. I replaced it with a nearly new used
F3. It helped a lot. My tyres are Pilot Sport 170 on the rear, 42psi.
My weight is 85kg and is adjusted to 5.
I have just installed a new flip up windscreen which I find makes the bike more stabile at higher speed.

 

He means disconnect a vacuum line that goes into the engine, stick that in the Seafoam and let the engine suck it in. Running it thru the tank is a very slow and incomplete use of it. Directly into the engine...

Well, you'll know it from the smoke

 

I'd love to see that screen or a company name. that sounds like a good thing.

I'll try the vacuum hose feed, do I use the whole 16oz. bottle?

 

oh and, I reset the rear shock to 4, it did much better, I'll try to lower the psi a few lbs, may to 38. a friend of mine suggested going super low with the shock to relieve strain on the back. not worth it I say if it causes strain in the brain

 

I'd love to see that screen or a company name. that sounds like a good thing.

Check this out....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

 

You should set the sag on your bike properly, and work from there:

Sag is how much the bike settles under weight. Static sag is how much the bike settles under it's own weight. You should set your bike for 30mm of sag, with 30mm being 3 cm, which is roughly an inch (1.18 inches to be exact).

To set sag: have a friend hold the bike up. Measure from the tail light to the ground without you being on the bike. That is your initial distance. Then, with your friend holding the bike, sit on the thing just like you would ride... ya know, with your feet up, hunkered down, the aggrsesive corner killing stance! While seated bounce up and down a few times on the bike to be sure the suspension has settled. Now, measure from the tail down to the ground again. Take the initial measurement, and subtract the second distance. That is your bikes "sag" with you on the bike.

You should only have 1" there, which is 30mm of sag. With that properly set, you can move on to the next thing... which is your rebound!


Setting rebound:

There isn't an exact science to this that I know of, but here is the general concept. Rebound controls how quickly the shock jumps back after it has compressed due to say... a bump in the road.

If, with sag properly set, you find the bike to be a bit harsh over bumps, and hyper active, you can adjust rebound to help. A slower rebound will help with bumps, and will prevent a hyperactive bike, however if you go too soft your bike will get "swimming" like you're saying, and not recover in time for multiple bumps, or wallow in the turns. Too much rebound though and you'll be on a pogo stick, and bumps will really upset the bike and make you feel out of control.

The rebound is found on the riders right side BOTTOM of the shock. If you don't have a tire hugger, you should be able to see it dinstinctly. If you do, there's a little hole in the fairing, which is designed to allow a small flat head screw driver through to allow adjusting. As I recall, to the left is slower recover, to the right is quicker recovery.

I personally set my bike so as it returns at bit faster than 1/2 the speed it compresses. I do this by having some one hold the handle bars, and jam down on the tail. The bike compresses at a given rate that I observe, and it returns at a rate I observe. It's all guestimation really.


That's how you dial in suspension on the F2. With the fancier F3 shocks you get better adjustability, and compression adjustability, which I don't fully understand enough to give proper advice on.

 

Oh yes, and on the setting sag note, google it a ton and you'll see what I'm saying is practically law on the topic. As far as the method I state for setting, it's recited from both personal experience, and Twist of the Wrist 2's explenation of how to set sag.

 

Thanks for that Jesse. I'll get to it