the f3 fairing should bolt up, BUT the f3s upper is diffrent from the f2. not by much though. behind the mirror the fairing is a little longer on the f3 becuse the wind screen is a little diffrent. also on the f3 they got rid of the small intake vent just above the blinker.

if you decide to go with the one piece upper, you will most likely need to get a on piece lower. that is what i have on my bike and it looks good but the one piece fairings dont match up as well as stock parts. as far as finding them on ebay i got mine from MTCYWHLSL he has more listed in his ebay store. just look up his seller id.

 

ok, so the after market 1 piece parts don't fit right?

 

its not that they dont fit right, just not as good as stock pieces. i had to trim a little bit here and there with my dremmel tool on my one pieces to get them to fit real good and now they fit on nice

 

I don't know when the next oem rh upper fairing will be on ebay, would you reccommend waiting or go for the after market 1 piece?

 

if your going to keep the stock head light and the rest of your fairings arre good i would keep looking on ebay for the stock fairing. its not worth the hassel for a on piece if your keeping your headlight. becuse with the one pieces you have to drill all your holes and fiberglass does not last as long as oem plastic.

 

I know for a fact that mix matching F2 and F3 front farings do not work. You either will have to get all new front and side farings from an F3 to fit properly, or stay with F2 farings. The front F3 upper cowl pieces don't direcly bolt onto F2 side farins and F3 side farings are about 1-2 inches longer and won't bolt on F2 front upper cowl pieces. Also, I had a hard time of fitting F3 pieces around the front stay bracket/bar so I gave it back for a refund from a friend.

this was my bike in a "streetfighter ghetto phase"


The damage on your farings look bad, but fixable. Grab yourself some plastic welder, sandpaper (80, 220 gritt, 400 grit wet sandpaper), woven fiberglass cloth, fiberglass resin (clear liquid kind is better), aluminum foil, bondo body filler, denatural alcohol, a few cans of primer and a few cans of paint (spray). All the materials should be under 100 bucks. Here's a step by step run down of how to fix your farings and a quick and dirty rattle can spray job. Gloss black is cheap and easy to do. If you go black, also get black primer, but if you get another color, you can use grey primer or if you can find colored primer, use that instead.

1. Sand down the area of where the cracks are, including between the cracks are in the farings. Wipe the area down with a rag to get the dust off. Use plastic weld to hold the pieces together. If your missing a piece of the faring or have a hole, use aluminum foil and tape it to the painted side. Make sure you tape it all around the area.
2. Next sand down the platic weld glue job a bit so its more flush with the back side of the farings. Wipe the area down again.
3. Cut a piece(s) of the fiberglass cloth to go over the cracks (about 2-3 inches from the crack itself). Get a tub some some mixing spoons (I got a batch from wendies) and mix yourself a small amount of resin and hardener.
4. Add the fiberglass cloth to the farings and use the spoon to pour and spread the resin over the cloth. Once the fiberglass gets 'wet' it should stick fine to the faring. Don't pour a lot of resin down or else it'll run off and if your doing in an area that has some angles, you'll have some thick and thin spots. Just pour enough to soak the fiberglass cloth.
5. Cut more pieces of cloth to fit the area and repeat step 4. More layers is better. I usually go 3 layers so stop after that.
6. Sand down the painted side with 80 gritt sandpaper to get unwanted stuff off such as resin and whatever. Use 220 for a finer touch area.
7. Next use bondo body filler to level the surface of the farings down and sand that down with either 80 or 220 sandpaper initally.
8. Once you have all pieces plastic welded, fiberglassed, bondoed, and sanded, sand down lightly all the farings thats will be painted with 400 gritt wet sandpaper. To wet sand you need to get a bucket of water. You can add some dish soap to the mix, but not necessary. Dip the 400 sandpaper in the water and lightly sand the farigns. You don't have to apply too much pressure, just lightly go over the surface just enough to get a finer surface compared to that of 220. You'll notice the difference of roughness between 220 and 400.
9. Use a shop rag or paper towels to wipe the area with denaturalized alcohol. Do this everytime when you sand to get oil, dust, and other **** off before you spray primer or paint.
10. Next is primer. You have to add primer so the paint has something to stick to. If you get rattle cans, get a rattle can paint gun (for spray cans) as you can control where you spray better. 1st coat should be thick but don't just spray it on. Any mistakes in primer will amplify 10x when you spray the paint and can give your bike a crappy look. To spray correctly, just stay an even distance from the sprayer t