OIL CHANGE?
#1
02-19-2007, 02:14 AM
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#2
02-19-2007, 02:19 AM
#3
02-19-2007, 02:22 AM
RE: OIL CHANGE?
To change the oil and filter you will need to remove almost all the body work, (except the upper fairing around the headlight...that stays on.).
But all lower, mid, and tailwork has to be removed.
The drain plug is on the left hand side, (left as in if you were sitting on the bike)...while the oil filter is on the right hand side.
I posted a how to....which I'll repeat here: *Self Quote...other forum...other month*
1. Tools you'll need:
Long handled phillips screwdriver
Short handled, ("stubby") phillips screwdriver
17mm box end wrench or 17mm socket and ratchet.
I forget which size it was so a set of metric hex wrenches...aka "allen"
wrenches. (They won't sell individual allen wrenches...and who the heck is
this "allen" guy anyway. *Ba dum splash* ....so just make sure you have
a set.)
Oil filter removal wrench.
Coffee and the playoffs on the garage TV will help as well...
2. Be prepared to remove bodywork. Lots of it.
The fairing...both left and right side.
There are little tabs that help hold on the bodywork along with the
aforementioned hex bolts.
DO NOT BREAK THESE TABS. BE EASY...GENTLE WHEN REMOVING YOUR
BODYWORK. DON'T FORCE ANYTHING.
After you loosen all the hex bolts...the bodywork and it's tabs should kind
of swing up and out easily away from the bike.
3. The oil drain plug is on the left side of the bike...and this is where you'll
need that 17mm box end or 17mm socket...whichever you prefer.
Remember...you are underneath the bike removing this bolt.
And to loosen it...you'll want to turn it counter-clockwise.
Let the oil drain...(you did remember to warm the bike up and thus the
oil....right? This will make the oil drain more efficiently once you remove
that bolt.)
When replacing the bolt...tighten it using two fingers, close to the head of
the wrench.
DON'T OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLT!!!!
That engine is aluminum...and if you over tighten and strip the threads.
Well....you'll need either experience with a threading tool....or alot of
money to pay someone who does.
The pressure from the engine will keep that bolt in place by forcing the
threads on the bolt and threads in the engine case to grip.
Save your machismo for something else...like your girlfriend.
4. The filter is on the right side of the bike.
This is where you'll need the filter removal wrench.
Counter-clockwise...
If it takes some manhandling to loosen the filter....and you end up
crushing the aluminum outer shell....that's OK...as you are going to
dispose of it anyway.
*Keep some newspaper...or shop rags handy...make sure the pipes are
cool enough to not catch fire...and lay rags on the pipes before you
remove filter...so you lessen the amount of oil that will inevitably be on
those pipes....once you have the oil replaced and you start it up*
5. An F2 takes approximately 3.75 quarts of oil...and you'll want to check
it again, (oil-dipstick) after a few miles ride.
You may need to top it off just a bit after the oil filter has had time
to fill up and become soaked.
But all lower, mid, and tailwork has to be removed.
The drain plug is on the left hand side, (left as in if you were sitting on the bike)...while the oil filter is on the right hand side.
I posted a how to....which I'll repeat here: *Self Quote...other forum...other month*
1. Tools you'll need:
Long handled phillips screwdriver
Short handled, ("stubby") phillips screwdriver
17mm box end wrench or 17mm socket and ratchet.
I forget which size it was so a set of metric hex wrenches...aka "allen"
wrenches. (They won't sell individual allen wrenches...and who the heck is
this "allen" guy anyway. *Ba dum splash* ....so just make sure you have
a set.)
Oil filter removal wrench.
Coffee and the playoffs on the garage TV will help as well...
2. Be prepared to remove bodywork. Lots of it.
The fairing...both left and right side.
There are little tabs that help hold on the bodywork along with the
aforementioned hex bolts.
DO NOT BREAK THESE TABS. BE EASY...GENTLE WHEN REMOVING YOUR
BODYWORK. DON'T FORCE ANYTHING.
After you loosen all the hex bolts...the bodywork and it's tabs should kind
of swing up and out easily away from the bike.
3. The oil drain plug is on the left side of the bike...and this is where you'll
need that 17mm box end or 17mm socket...whichever you prefer.
Remember...you are underneath the bike removing this bolt.
And to loosen it...you'll want to turn it counter-clockwise.
Let the oil drain...(you did remember to warm the bike up and thus the
oil....right? This will make the oil drain more efficiently once you remove
that bolt.)
When replacing the bolt...tighten it using two fingers, close to the head of
the wrench.
DON'T OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLT!!!!
That engine is aluminum...and if you over tighten and strip the threads.
Well....you'll need either experience with a threading tool....or alot of
money to pay someone who does.
The pressure from the engine will keep that bolt in place by forcing the
threads on the bolt and threads in the engine case to grip.
Save your machismo for something else...like your girlfriend.
4. The filter is on the right side of the bike.
This is where you'll need the filter removal wrench.
Counter-clockwise...
If it takes some manhandling to loosen the filter....and you end up
crushing the aluminum outer shell....that's OK...as you are going to
dispose of it anyway.
*Keep some newspaper...or shop rags handy...make sure the pipes are
cool enough to not catch fire...and lay rags on the pipes before you
remove filter...so you lessen the amount of oil that will inevitably be on
those pipes....once you have the oil replaced and you start it up*
5. An F2 takes approximately 3.75 quarts of oil...and you'll want to check
it again, (oil-dipstick) after a few miles ride.
You may need to top it off just a bit after the oil filter has had time
to fill up and become soaked.
#5
02-19-2007, 04:23 AM
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