in the specs, it's listed JASO-MA. thats for wet clutches. it works, trust me...

 

I use only Mobil-1 bike oil. But changing the oil in winter picks up moisture in the oil, not recommended till a couple weeks after above 45 degrees in the spring. It is a big no no that alot of people make the mistake of getting the freshness of a good lubed bike on the road in the spring. The moisture helps break down the oil before even 1 riding mile is done. Wait till spring and only takes 20 minutes.

 

Numerous oil threads all over this forum, and several specifically on the Rotella T6 synthetic. All agree that the diesel oil is perfectly fine for wet clutches.

Easy to find, easy to find on sale, and costs less than other synthetics.

 

Why are there so many oil change threads!!!

 

People cause way too much fuss about oil. Car oil is fine, as long as you don't use the stuff that says "Energy Conserving" in the round seal. I personally use Shell Rotella T6, synthetic diesel oil. Many many many threads online about T6 working great in bikes. To be honest, any 10W-40 oil will work. The best oil is fresh oil. Printed in the manual: "Use only high detergent, premium quality motor oil certified to meet US automobile manufacturer's requirements for Service Classification SF or SG. Motor oils intended for Service SF or SG will show this designation on the container. The use of special oil additives is unnecessary and will only increase operating expenses."

Synthetic being too "thin", what does that mean? 10W-40 is 10W-40, synthetic or conventional. The T6 that I use is actually 5W-40. What does that mean? At really low temperatures, it won't become as "thick" as a 10W-40, but when hot, will be just as thick as a 10W-40. This is a good thing because not only does it make it easier to crank when its 20F outside, it flows better when the bike is cold, allowing more oil to get to moving parts, and protects just as well when its hot. Win-win situation. Printed in the manual is "Recommended Oil Viscosity SAE 10W-40). The manual also lists 10W-40 as the weight recommended for the widest range of temperatures (10F to over 110F). 20W-40 is listed for 35F to over 110F, and 20W-50 is listed for 35F to over roughly 120F. Also printed is "Other viscosities shown in the chart below may be used when the average temperature in your riding area is within the indicated range". Unless you're racing in the desert, I would stick to the 10W-40, or 5W-40, which I suspect isn't listed because of its limited availability back in 1991.

The manual for my 2009 aircooled Kawasaki dual-sport lists pretty much the same information, except the temperatures recommended for 10W-40 is a little lower, being aircooled. With an air cooled engine running at low speeds in the woods, something like a 10W-50 would be useful. Since our bikes are water cooled, they can keep temperatures much more stable.

 

You wont find SF or SG anymore. That was old standards. With all the new additives, they are up to SM now. Oil is oil, the additives are what you got to watch out for.

Just get some rotella or any brand motorcycle oil, synthetic if you like, in a 5 or 10w-40 and ride.

Lets not start another oil thread debate. There is plenty of those already....

 

Because the search function on CBRF is set up terribly, and pretty much useless as such. Since the forum owner's parent company makes money on advertising, it probably benefits them more to have people creating a trillion oil, tire, chain, etc. threads instead of finding one good thread that has already been written.

type "what oil to use" into the main search window on the forum and this is the result you get:

Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms.

The following words are either very common, too long, or too short and were not included in your search : what, oil, to, use