Yes I know, I am the "search button ****" !

BUT, I spent an hour sifting through threads found with the search and they ALL say "use the search, lots of info on here already"

I couldn't find one damn bit of solid information.

I'd like to hear from somebody that HAS DONE the swap, or HAS DONE their research and know as fact what is required.

I just picked up a low mileage F3 motor from a 96, and as far as I have researched it's a direct fit up, can use the F2 carbs but I have a set of F3 carbs I will be using anyway, SHOULD be able to use the F2 airbox.

However, the F3 has ram-air snorkels, are they required and if so how can I rig some up?

I'm very competent at modifying or fabricating anything i'll need so go ahead and recommend the BEST way to get it done, not just the easiest way.

Thanks fella's.

 

Sounds like you may get to be the guinea pig, take lots of pics and document the swap, which you do so well,

 

It appears that way, I did some searching on a Wera forum and got some information but nothing really solid.

From what I gather the F2 carbs and airbox will work, but I have a set of F3 carbs I can use and I may track down an F3 airbox to plumb in the ram-air.

Some misleading information I keep finding is that with the F3 engine you lose the speedometer function, but as far as I know the speedo is ran off the front wheel hub.

However, I am worried about the crank position sensor being different and losing the tachometer.

I will take pictures and update what I find works and does not work.

 

Hope I can help a bit here. Use the F2 carbs and airbox. It's the best option. Here's why.

In order to get the F3 carbs to work right, you have to use the ram air system. That included all the hose, ram air scoop, F3 airbox, those other little air intake things, I forget what they are called right now, but they pressurize the carbs float bowls. It's a mess and it all has to be hooked up to work right. In addition, you'll need a fuel pump, a fuse, and wire that up, like F3's since you can't gravity feed the carbs any more.

But here's the upside of the conversion. You've added weight to the bike, you've got more things that can fail and leave you stranded 75 miles from home, the ram air blocks the lower triples, so forget using your frontend stand any more. And finally, for all your hard work, money and time, you've added ZERO hp by doing this. It's a complete waste.

As for the speedo, it's driven off the front wheel, has nothing to do with the engine swap. The tach is driven off the engine the same as the F2, so that won't change either.

Phil

 

So is there any gain in power by using the F3 motor with the F2 hardware?

It is my understanding that the F3 uses different cams, and without doing any research I would assume they updated the head.

I heard they have beefier connecting rods too, but that's a moot point.

 

Rigged up a starter to the motor on the bench, cold compression #'s are:

#1 - 120
#2 - 130
#3 - 120
#4 - 115

The motor is in very decent shape, I may check valve clearances before putting it into the frame then check compression again at operating temp.