CBR 600F2 1991 - 1994 CBR 600F2

Cleaned carbs, now worse :(

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 07-27-2011, 08:21 AM
woo545's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 2,680
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by MikeInCtown
As far as the carbs go, i didn't remove the diaphragms. I just pulled the jets and cleaned them good. I did check all the float valves and they had plenty of spring pressure. They were all cone shaped, however they all had a shiny mark on them where they were obviously seated in the carbs. Should I scotchbrite these to smooth them back out? None of the floats were sticking either, so I am at a loss for why the fuel just keeps getting pulled through.

What I will do tomorrow is pull the diaphragm as well as the pilot adjustment screw. on each one. those are the only thing I did not touch. Will spray everything down yet again with carb cleaner and blow out with the compressor. Will also double check the float valves. I'm not sure hoow I can tell if they are seating properly. All I know is they look perfect except for the shiny area on the rubber tip.
Mike, when I first cleaned my carbs, I was pretty inexperienced at it (took me three tries). The one thing I failed to do was makes sure the idle jet was clear (the one that is not removable). When you look in the copper fitting, you want to make sure there is a hole dead center and that it is clear (JT mentioned spraying carb cleaner through it). This leads to hole towards the bottom side wall of the venturi. When I looked in the copper fitting of mine, there was a slight amount of crud and I didn't see the hole at all. I ran a wire from a wire brush through there and another wire inside opening of the venturi to make sure I could get the wires to touch. Then when I was sure that was cleared I sprayed the carb cleaner through to get the debris out.

Before doing this, I couldn't get the bike to start when it was cold. After you clean out the carbs again (making sure the idle screws are cleaned and reset). Balance and adjust the idle screws.
 
  #12  
Old 07-30-2011, 12:49 PM
MikeInCtown's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ok, got EVERYTHING cleaned out. the idle jets, bowls, main jets, choke needles, etc. I returned the idle mixture screws to exactly where they were before I pulled it apart. The only settings I did not touch were the throttle position screws that had been set by the previous owner/factory. Bike started up great, but wouldn't start with choke. I gave it a little gas and it fired right up. Idled smoother than it ever has. So took it for a ride around the garages and found that as soon as you give it gas, it wants to hesitate and stumble, like it is running on three cylinders. Then it runs fine. I parked it for 10 minutes, went to start it back up and couldn't get it to start to save my life.

I'm going nuts here trying to figure out what could be the problem now. It should at least start and run halfway decent.

Also, thinking maybe I'm screwing up my plugs now since I've flooded it so many times. Need a part number for a cheap set to buy and use until I get this thing right. I'm not about to keep spending $35 on a set of plugs.
 
  #13  
Old 08-08-2011, 09:49 PM
woo545's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 2,680
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by MikeInCtown
Ok, got EVERYTHING cleaned out. the idle jets, bowls, main jets, choke needles, etc. I returned the idle mixture screws to exactly where they were before I pulled it apart. The only settings I did not touch were the throttle position screws that had been set by the previous owner/factory. Bike started up great, but wouldn't start with choke. I gave it a little gas and it fired right up. Idled smoother than it ever has. So took it for a ride around the garages and found that as soon as you give it gas, it wants to hesitate and stumble, like it is running on three cylinders. Then it runs fine. I parked it for 10 minutes, went to start it back up and couldn't get it to start to save my life.

I'm going nuts here trying to figure out what could be the problem now. It should at least start and run halfway decent.

Also, thinking maybe I'm screwing up my plugs now since I've flooded it so many times. Need a part number for a cheap set to buy and use until I get this thing right. I'm not about to keep spending $35 on a set of plugs.
If it started without the choke, then the mixture might be too rich. Possibly replacing your plugs would work, but I'd set the idle screws back to 1 1/2 turns, balance the carbs then adjust the idle screws as per the service manual.

Keep in mind, now that that carbs are clear, more gas will be flowing.
 
  #14  
Old 08-09-2011, 08:33 AM
MikeInCtown's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Well I never touched the screws that balance the butterflies, and physically holding them to the light showed what looked like almost perfect slight openings. I think I found the problem to be a bad float or valve in the #1 carb (left side) as I found fuel sitting in the cylinder (valves were closed) when I pulled the carbs back off. In process of finding a new float and valve to be sure.
 
  #15  
Old 08-14-2011, 10:53 PM
CW2_Talley's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Fort Sill
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

one thing that i have noticed about carb cleaner and not totaly disasimbing the carbs is that the rubber pices can decentagrate. so i mite check that the slides are still in good condition. they will let the bike idle but if they dont have a good seal or a hole the vac. will not pull them up and choke the bike out.
 
  #16  
Old 08-18-2011, 08:25 PM
Avalon's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The exact things happened to my f2. the reason your engine wouldnt turn over when you tried to start it was because one or more of the cylinders were filled with so much gas that they hydrolocked. this is because your float needles are bad. that little shiny spot you mentioned on them is in fact a tiny ridge in the rubber, keeping them from sealing. it was running good before because the needles may seal at a certain location, but since they can rotate, they can quickly change to a location where they do not seal properly. http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-deta...roduct_id=4163 these are what you need. 30 bucks plus 14 shipping and your bike will be running like a champ. these needles are more alcohol resistant than stock too so they will hold up better with all the ethanol in the fuel nowadays. just be sure to change your oil and filter after the needles are in because all that fuel that was in your cylinders and hydrolocking your engine has now drained down around your piston rings into your oil and thinned your oil. which is bad for pretty much everything.

oh and change your plugs too just for good measure and dont get carb cleaner on anything rubber or plastic.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bowtieboy42
General Tech
13
09-13-2017 08:57 AM
cesarsanch2
CBR 900RR
6
11-08-2012 10:32 PM
ganzey
CBR 1000F "Hurricane"
9
05-19-2011 06:45 AM
smitty911
Off Topic
7
02-11-2009 04:37 PM
hikerduane
General Tech
3
03-07-2006 12:12 AM



Quick Reply: Cleaned carbs, now worse :(



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:47 AM.