Charged battery... no power to bike
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no power to bike *Leak test?
I can't find any coroding (sp) wires anywhere. the positive and negetive terminals are perfectly clean. Ohm test says negetive terminal to ground is good. Positive terminal gives me power all the way to the ignition switch.
I'm trying to play with the manual to see if there are any answers I missed. Anybody know how to do a leak test? It doesn't say clearly in the manual, and I'm no pro at t his... it's wanting no more then 1.2 mA max. mili-amps? I 'm not sure.
In the manual it asks you to remove the negitive battery wire. Connect the multi-meter to the negitive battery terminal and the ground wire you just removed. I get .4 volts (if volts is what it's asking for then it passes that. ) I thinki'm wrong though.
I'm trying to play with the manual to see if there are any answers I missed. Anybody know how to do a leak test? It doesn't say clearly in the manual, and I'm no pro at t his... it's wanting no more then 1.2 mA max. mili-amps? I 'm not sure.
In the manual it asks you to remove the negitive battery wire. Connect the multi-meter to the negitive battery terminal and the ground wire you just removed. I get .4 volts (if volts is what it's asking for then it passes that. ) I thinki'm wrong though.
#4
RE: no power to bike *Leak test?
ORIGINAL: SalemCBR
....In the manual it asks you to remove the negitive battery wire. Connect the multi-meter to the negitive battery terminal and the ground wire you just removed. I get .4 volts (if volts is what it's asking for then it passes that. )
....In the manual it asks you to remove the negitive battery wire. Connect the multi-meter to the negitive battery terminal and the ground wire you just removed. I get .4 volts (if volts is what it's asking for then it passes that. )
I'd say you have a poor or loose connection somewhere, maybe at the starter relay?
#5
#6
RE: no power to bike *Leak test?
If he only has .3 volts at the ignition fuse, he doesn't need to be looking for a draw, he needs to be looking for a poor connection. You can also check for a draw with a DMM on volts, safer than using your DMM on amperage, if it's pulling more than 10 amps, it will pop the internal fuse in your DMM if it's on amps. On volts, it can only go as high as battery volts, but if its that high, you definitely have a draw. If it's only .4 volts, you probably don't have a significant draw. While it's hooked up like that, if you turn the key on, it should go to battery volts, unless you have a bad connection. [8D]
#7
RE: no power to bike *Leak test?
Internet wasn't working for a few days......
It looks like we've concluded further leak testing isn't nessisary. When I was going that leak test with volts (negetive bat. terminal to disconnected battery negetive line/ground)-if I did turn the key on, then I got the same reading as the battery. 13.2v....ignition switch off>it's .4v In case that help anyone with information.
I've got power everywhere I can think to test it. Regulator, ignition, - Anything else someone is thinking of? Also what can I do to test the starter relay, or is that going to give me this symptom of no power at the indicator lights? Do I just start stipping all the rubber off the wires to find this fried connection??
Kinda feeling like i'm going to have to break down and take the bike to a shop. The shop i like has a month wait too. So I guess if you're going to charge the battery you should disconnect it from the bike. Learned.
It looks like we've concluded further leak testing isn't nessisary. When I was going that leak test with volts (negetive bat. terminal to disconnected battery negetive line/ground)-if I did turn the key on, then I got the same reading as the battery. 13.2v....ignition switch off>it's .4v In case that help anyone with information.
I've got power everywhere I can think to test it. Regulator, ignition, - Anything else someone is thinking of? Also what can I do to test the starter relay, or is that going to give me this symptom of no power at the indicator lights? Do I just start stipping all the rubber off the wires to find this fried connection??
Kinda feeling like i'm going to have to break down and take the bike to a shop. The shop i like has a month wait too. So I guess if you're going to charge the battery you should disconnect it from the bike. Learned.