Charged battery. now it reads 13.3 v I have power to the ignition switch. All fuses are good. Any thoughts? No indicator lights. Power at the ignition fuse is .3 volts.

 

problem is obvious, you have a short in a wire somewhere. check your battery cables, its very possible one or both of them are aging and corroded, causing this poor connection.

 

I can't find any coroding (sp) wires anywhere. the positive and negetive terminals are perfectly clean. Ohm test says negetive terminal to ground is good. Positive terminal gives me power all the way to the ignition switch.

I'm trying to play with the manual to see if there are any answers I missed. Anybody know how to do a leak test? It doesn't say clearly in the manual, and I'm no pro at t his... it's wanting no more then 1.2 mA max. mili-amps? I 'm not sure.

In the manual it asks you to remove the negitive battery wire. Connect the multi-meter to the negitive battery terminal and the ground wire you just removed. I get .4 volts (if volts is what it's asking for then it passes that. ) I thinki'm wrong though.

 

Connected like that, it should read battery volts. [8D]
I'd say you have a poor or loose connection somewhere, maybe at the starter relay?

 

if you're looking for a leak, remove one of the battery cables and connect one lead of the multimeter to it and the other to the battery, you're looking for current, so it should be amps or milliamps, not volts

 

If he only has .3 volts at the ignition fuse, he doesn't need to be looking for a draw, he needs to be looking for a poor connection. You can also check for a draw with a DMM on volts, safer than using your DMM on amperage, if it's pulling more than 10 amps, it will pop the internal fuse in your DMM if it's on amps. On volts, it can only go as high as battery volts, but if its that high, you definitely have a draw. If it's only .4 volts, you probably don't have a significant draw. While it's hooked up like that, if you turn the key on, it should go to battery volts, unless you have a bad connection. [8D]

 

Internet wasn't working for a few days......

It looks like we've concluded further leak testing isn't nessisary. When I was going that leak test with volts (negetive bat. terminal to disconnected battery negetive line/ground)-if I did turn the key on, then I got the same reading as the battery. 13.2v....ignition switch off>it's .4v In case that help anyone with information.

I've got power everywhere I can think to test it. Regulator, ignition, - Anything else someone is thinking of? Also what can I do to test the starter relay, or is that going to give me this symptom of no power at the indicator lights? Do I just start stipping all the rubber off the wires to find this fried connection??

Kinda feeling like i'm going to have to break down and take the bike to a shop. The shop i like has a month wait too. So I guess if you're going to charge the battery you should disconnect it from the bike. Learned.

 

check the connections on the ignition coils. the two prongs could be shorting out on their holding frame. thats what my was did.

 

Mmm Kay... where is that? Coils go right to the part your talking of?

 

take off your gas tank and your intake and you'll see two black packets with two wires coming off. check that.