Well the battery minus IS connected to the frame, however the aftermarket gauges do tend to be reeeally picky about their grounds so it`s better to run a straight wire to the battery, but it MIGHT work just as well with any ground point as this is after all a fairly lo-fi electrics bike (no EFI, no lambdas etc...)

Probly the most common way to fit the magnetic pickup for the speedo is just to ziptie it to the front shock. (or make a bracket for it depending on what kind of a pickup it is) Did you get those chrome colored little magnets with the gauge as well? Cause you need to put them onto your rim. Usually people take 2k epoxy and glue a magnet or two into the bolts that hold the brake rotor in place, the magnets are usually just the size that they go into the allen key hole of the bolts, a little dab of glue in first and the magnet will hold itself in place until the glue sets. Position the pickup so that it reads the magnet(s) but doesn`t hit anything if it happens to move a bit from a hard bump etc. You will need to set the pulse count (number of magnets per revolution) and the circumference of the tire into the gauge settings for it to read right.

The odometer is a bit of an issue... I have yet to see a gauge that would have a possibility to set a mileage to it. You`re probly looking at fitting a magnet to something you can spin with a drill in front of the pickup. Reserve a beer or two as it`ll take a wee while...

 

Well after a good old think during the cursid busses to work which im now degraded to. I had to go to plan B the current gauge is just crud. So plan B is now to go to the seperate mechanical drive speedo. Already have a speed pick up which thankfully didnt cut off. Mattson would you say one of these clocks are easier to hook up?

 

You'd have to know what is the drive ratio of the original gauge and of that gauge, there's no adjustment.

You'd still have to either dismantle the gauge to rearrange the rollers or spin the sheboygan out of that one with a drill to get the odometer to match. Dude don't give up

 

Why does the odometer need to match? Isn't the mot more about making sure the bike is safe?

 

Haha thanks for the vote of confidence, unfortunately due to the bike sitting in the garage since September and starting it up so it doesn't seize up, i need to get it out back on the road before problems start occurring however i am going to stick with mechanical driven speedo and a rev counter that is easy to switch over to. I did have a question for you Mattson, i'm dealing with the wiring this weekend, its like spaghetti junction, what would you think be the best thing to clear up the wiring regarding placement on the F2?

No more digital, im gonna stick with analogue and mechanical lol.

 

Good point, i need to do more homework on this, the only reason I said this before is when i spoke to a mechanic he said it would be best to get the old milage on the old clock transferred to the new one, how I would go about this i wouldn't know at this stage, however if it doesn't match the mileage on previous MOT it is illegal? If I am missing something here please give me some advice as I said before im a noobie building a bike for the first time lol. Inspiration is my best asset

 

OK I have success with the wiring problem, Ive managed to spend a lot of time cleaning up and customizing the wiring harness to fit the bike without it looking to bad. A place for the fuse box and relay.











Wiring done but not completed the black electrical tape wrapping.









Wiring now completed with it all wrapped in electrical tape and weather proofed









So now im done, im waiting for the new gauges to be ordered when I have the money and next will be drilling the bars for the placement of the grips and handlebar switches.

Your thoughts about this set up?

 

Pretty badass look with those new lights. I'm thinking of doing something similar to this but with LED Light Bars using a custom bracket, but I was thinking of using some heat protective shielding and passing the wiring through between the carbs (there's 3, maybe 5, little allies there that might be useful) but I haven't finished checking to see if I can do that to hide all of my wiring. Are you going to try to add your digital speedo in the mean time?

 

Thank you for the approval yeah I did consider the alley between the carbs but I thought the heat from the engine can make the wires crispy and short them out in due course. Hwnse why I left it externally. Also adds to the rugid look im going for. The bars are better as fork tubes the steering is amazing now. I didnt want a bar held in the middle as the clocks want to be central. Ive actually gone to clasaic looking clocks just waiting to get enough money to invest in the speedo and mechanical pick up extension as the original is to short lol. The wiring is a beach to do. Very labersome as mattson pointed out earlier in the post. Defo worth the time and the lights are different to anything ive seen before. More the reason to invest in them. Unique

 

Yeah I was wondering about this same problem for a long time and had to search up for some good heat shielding. I figure I'll see how it goes and check the cables after a while to see how it holds up. I'm only modding my bike for kicks, not to set the world on fire This is what I came up with:
Aluminized Heat Sheath High Temperature Exhaust Heat Shield | eBay
I was actually going to try fuel line. The carbs' lines handle it so I just assumed cables wrapped in fuel hose would too. But I wasn't convinced so I kept looking.