CBR 600F2 1991 - 1994 CBR 600F2

CBR F2 Streetfighter Project - Update throughout 2016

  #1  
Old 02-10-2016, 03:26 PM
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Default CBR F2 Streetfighter Project - Update throughout 2016

Hi guys just posting up some pictures of my project with my F2, I will be updating this every week or so when I have a spare minute from the good lady and son. I am in need of some help with the wiring at the point I am at.

Some points I need help with:

* Rev counter not working on new clock (analogue rev counter)
* Where to put the magnetic speedo
* Neutral light not lighting up on new gauge
* How to drill into a chrome handlebar
* The headlight flasher not working with new headlights
* Wiring loom at front end (Shorten? or possibility to hide under petrol tank?)

I would be very greatful for any help and advice as I am a noobie jumping into the work and getting my hands very dirty. I am more than happy to post new pictures to the questions I have if needed.

Thanks for reading :-)















































This is the point where I am at (10th Feb 2016)

Any feedback and help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Last edited by damion1986; 02-10-2016 at 03:28 PM.
  #2  
Old 02-10-2016, 04:54 PM
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How to drill into a chrome handlebar
-Buy a cobalt drill bit, they`re a bit more pricy than regular HSS drills but it`ll get you even through stainless.

-I`m surprised on a regular basis finding out not a whole lot of people either know or care about this: NEVER EVER drill metal dry. That`s the most common and fastest way to ruin your drill bits. ALWAYS use some sort of cutting fluid. If you can get a hold of a product called ROCOL, buy it. Something like CRC Supercut II works well (green spray tin) but Rocol is way better. Basically if it`s not cutting (stuff coming out) it`s rounding up the cutting edge

Neutral light not lighting up on new gauge
Is there one or two wires for the neutral switch in the wiring diagram, and if one, is it marked as + or - ?

If there`s only one wire for the neutral light, ground it and see if the N light lits up. Ignition on, naturally.

Have you checked does your neutral switch actually work? Put your bike in neutral, switch your multimeter to the continuity beeper, put one prong on the connector in the switch and poke the other one to a good ground. You should be getting a beep until you shift it into gear.
 
  #3  
Old 02-12-2016, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattson View Post
-Buy a cobalt drill bit, they`re a bit more pricy than regular HSS drills but it`ll get you even through stainless.

-I`m surprised on a regular basis finding out not a whole lot of people either know or care about this: NEVER EVER drill metal dry. That`s the most common and fastest way to ruin your drill bits. ALWAYS use some sort of cutting fluid. If you can get a hold of a product called ROCOL, buy it. Something like CRC Supercut II works well (green spray tin) but Rocol is way better. Basically if it`s not cutting (stuff coming out) it`s rounding up the cutting edge



Is there one or two wires for the neutral switch in the wiring diagram, and if one, is it marked as + or - ?

If there`s only one wire for the neutral light, ground it and see if the N light lits up. Ignition on, naturally.

Have you checked does your neutral switch actually work? Put your bike in neutral, switch your multimeter to the continuity beeper, put one prong on the connector in the switch and poke the other one to a good ground. You should be getting a beep until you shift it into gear.

Thanks for the drilling tip. Does WD40 do the trick as well? The neutral wireing from the new clocks there is only 1 wire and there is 1 earthing cable (green) for the whole clock I believe. I have 1 earth wire from original loom (green) and 1 neutral wire. Ive got a haynes manule but a lot of the wiring colours are different. Ive basicly been following the colours of the original clock and assosiated the colour to where they go lol
 
  #4  
Old 02-12-2016, 02:18 AM
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WD-40 is a lubricant not a cutting fluid (although one of the tasks of the cutting fluid is to lubricate) so I doubt it. Getting a bottle shouldn't set you back more than that WD-40 so it's a good idea to have one. Also don't redline your drill, the idea is to continuously remove material, if it stops cutting it starts heating and heat ruins the tip really fast. If it doesn't bite try pushing the drill harder into the material (but don't bend the drill bit or it'll snap) I usually lean onto the upper portion of the drill handle with my shoulder.


EDIT: I checked around the net a little, some say WD 40 somewhat works as a cutting fluid however I'd still advice against it since first of all it's flammable and second it's really lean and therefore specially when heated it tends to exit the part where the cutting is being made so to provide sufficient cooling and lubing at least spray the hole every few seconds or so. If you're not gonna use the cutting fluid after the one drilling I suppose you could get away with WD but be prepared to sacrifice the drill bit. For example CRC Supercut II sprays out as a thick foam so it sticks around much better. Trust me you'd be surprised how much faster you go through the metal and leave a much tidier hole with cutting fluid. Personally I can't understand why save 5 pounds by not buying the cutting fluid but happily buy a new 5 pound drill bit before every job you need to drill.

Sorry I don't mean to preach it's just one of those things I can't understand why people just don't get.

As said, take the neutral signal wire that comes from the gauge, turn your ignition on, poke the wire to a known ground and see if your N light goes on. If it lits up either what you think is a neutral wire is not, there is a break in the circuit, or your neutral switch is faulty.

Are you sure you got the right wiring diagram? Mismatching wire colors sound really strange. Even with my triumph that is one of those "gap year" transition models that partly follow the old and partly new wiring diagram the wire colors still mostly matched. Or are you referring to the wires on your OEM gauge vs the new aftermarket?
 

Last edited by Mattson; 02-12-2016 at 02:48 AM.
  #5  
Old 02-12-2016, 09:41 PM
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What kind of clip ons are you using. Also, if you turn them around, would your bars hit the tank?
 
  #6  
Old 02-13-2016, 09:11 AM
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The way those drag bars mount is badass.

I've used pb blaster and wd40 as a cutting fluid. They work great, just watch inhaling that crap...

That said, I've never had access to true cutting lube... But those two work better than nothing for sure, go slow
 

Last edited by Conrice; 02-13-2016 at 09:13 AM.
  #7  
Old 02-14-2016, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattson View Post
WD-40 is a lubricant not a cutting fluid (although one of the tasks of the cutting fluid is to lubricate) so I doubt it. Getting a bottle shouldn't set you back more than that WD-40 so it's a good idea to have one. Also don't redline your drill, the idea is to continuously remove material, if it stops cutting it starts heating and heat ruins the tip really fast. If it doesn't bite try pushing the drill harder into the material (but don't bend the drill bit or it'll snap) I usually lean onto the upper portion of the drill handle with my shoulder.


EDIT: I checked around the net a little, some say WD 40 somewhat works as a cutting fluid however I'd still advice against it since first of all it's flammable and second it's really lean and therefore specially when heated it tends to exit the part where the cutting is being made so to provide sufficient cooling and lubing at least spray the hole every few seconds or so. If you're not gonna use the cutting fluid after the one drilling I suppose you could get away with WD but be prepared to sacrifice the drill bit. For example CRC Supercut II sprays out as a thick foam so it sticks around much better. Trust me you'd be surprised how much faster you go through the metal and leave a much tidier hole with cutting fluid. Personally I can't understand why save 5 pounds by not buying the cutting fluid but happily buy a new 5 pound drill bit before every job you need to drill.

Sorry I don't mean to preach it's just one of those things I can't understand why people just don't get.

As said, take the neutral signal wire that comes from the gauge, turn your ignition on, poke the wire to a known ground and see if your N light goes on. If it lits up either what you think is a neutral wire is not, there is a break in the circuit, or your neutral switch is faulty.

Are you sure you got the right wiring diagram? Mismatching wire colors sound really strange. Even with my triumph that is one of those "gap year" transition models that partly follow the old and partly new wiring diagram the wire colors still mostly matched. Or are you referring to the wires on your OEM gauge vs the new aftermarket?
Thank you for the tip, I understand you emphasizing these points, believe me I come here to listen and learn and appreciate your suggestions also I will be posting pics to the next couple of comments with the complete wiring of the haynes manule for my model and the new clock instructions and wiring colours, they are in chinese and those guys are pros at english translation as you will see hahaha.
 
  #8  
Old 02-14-2016, 03:00 PM
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[QUOTE=Chad Brenno;1293618]What kind of clip ons are you using. Also, if you turn them around, would your bars hit the tank?[/QUOTE

Very good question, I have adapted a pair of eBay clip on risers with a custom bent handlebar done by my local steel bending specialists, believe me it is very custom and very hard to find someone who could have fulfilled my spec i needed. Costed me in total about £72 for risers, bar and a specialist to do exact measurement by the exact degree. slightest degree out and it is buggered. here is a pic of my design.

 
  #9  
Old 02-14-2016, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Conrice View Post
The way those drag bars mount is badass.

I've used pb blaster and wd40 as a cutting fluid. They work great, just watch inhaling that crap...

That said, I've never had access to true cutting lube... But those two work better than nothing for sure, go slow
Hehehe thank you Conrice, they where a lot of time researching and time processing an idea to skip the riser method and go tube attachment.

And thanks for the tip
 
  #10  
Old 02-14-2016, 03:20 PM
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Here are the wiring diagrams for the new and original gauges. Not sure if the neutral light is 2 wires on the older gauges, but even so the new gauge has 1 wire for each item such as oil/neutral/high beam and a single power cable dedicated to the whole clock.

I am wondering do i need to make another cable connecting from the power to the neutral cable on the new clocks wiring, or maybe I have made a mistake when colour coding which is which. I have original and new clock diagram of which colour I have coordinated and what goes where, If it looks wrong I would be delighted if someone could help me on this and enlighten me with some knowledge. Thank you.















 

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