CBR 600F2 1991 - 1994 CBR 600F2

CBR F2 Streetfighter Project - Update throughout 2016

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #31  
Old 03-11-2016, 09:05 AM
damion1986's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Seaford, UK
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by optytrex
Yeah I was wondering about this same problem for a long time and had to search up for some good heat shielding. I figure I'll see how it goes and check the cables after a while to see how it holds up. I'm only modding my bike for kicks, not to set the world on fire This is what I came up with:
Aluminized Heat Sheath High Temperature Exhaust Heat Shield | eBay
I was actually going to try fuel line. The carbs' lines handle it so I just assumed cables wrapped in fuel hose would too. But I wasn't convinced so I kept looking.
Yes this looks like a good idea, the heat shielding would be a good idea if your getting wires anywhere close to a heat source. Im currently at a stage where I need to drill into the bars to get the switches to sit well. I dont suppose anyone know how to remove an old bar weight from inside a bar that may have rusted.

Next up after this will be new speedo gauges
 
  #32  
Old 03-13-2016, 04:26 PM
damion1986's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Seaford, UK
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by damion1986
Yes this looks like a good idea, the heat shielding would be a good idea if your getting wires anywhere close to a heat source. Im currently at a stage where I need to drill into the bars to get the switches to sit well. I dont suppose anyone know how to remove an old bar weight from inside a bar that may have rusted.

Next up after this will be new speedo gauges
Ok bars drilled, just need to get the old bar weight out, i need to save cash and reusing an old weight would be ideal. Anyone with good ideas to removing a rusted in bar weight?
 
  #33  
Old 03-13-2016, 04:53 PM
Mattson's Avatar
Retired Super Moderator, Tin Star Man & Hurricane Saloon Prospect, ROTM Feb 2015
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Vääksy, Finland
Posts: 2,382
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Google-fu...



https://www.google.fi/url?sa=t&rct=j...enlByg&cad=rja

PDF file on how to remove the bar end weight. Basically you need to remove, or roll back the grips to see the holes, you need to push in the locking clips in the holes to release the locking clip that is holding the bar weight assembly in place. Notice that the assembly tends to rust pretty bad and can be plenty stuck in there so if you got a slidehammer now is a good time to fabricate an M6 tip to grab the end of the weight.
 
  #34  
Old 03-15-2016, 09:23 AM
damion1986's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Seaford, UK
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Mattson
Google-fu...



https://www.google.fi/url?sa=t&rct=j...enlByg&cad=rja

PDF file on how to remove the bar end weight. Basically you need to remove, or roll back the grips to see the holes, you need to push in the locking clips in the holes to release the locking clip that is holding the bar weight assembly in place. Notice that the assembly tends to rust pretty bad and can be plenty stuck in there so if you got a slidehammer now is a good time to fabricate an M6 tip to grab the end of the weight.
Thanks for the tip, ive seen the post you mentioned, unfortunately the holes located near the front of the bar is not the same on the F2. there is holes by the switches further up the handle bars and tried plying it out and no luck.

I've tried screwing in a bolt and plying the weight out using the bolt end. But again still no luck. Maybe buying a weight maybe the answer. I've resorted to buying mechanical speedo now, unfortunately that digital clock gave me nothing but problems and the neutral light was faulty which i finally found out. Financially im buying parts when and where i can afford them. Hopefully will be investing in more parts shortly pictures will follow.
 
  #35  
Old 03-15-2016, 03:58 PM
Mattson's Avatar
Retired Super Moderator, Tin Star Man & Hurricane Saloon Prospect, ROTM Feb 2015
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Vääksy, Finland
Posts: 2,382
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

?!

Mine sure did have the holes for the retainer clips. Although in mine one of the weights had rusted in so bad I had to force it out with a slidehammer.
 
  #36  
Old 03-16-2016, 06:03 AM
optytrex's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tijuana, Baja California
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

ditto the slidehammer idea, it really helps!
 
  #37  
Old 03-16-2016, 09:44 AM
damion1986's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Seaford, UK
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Mattson
?!

Mine sure did have the holes for the retainer clips. Although in mine one of the weights had rusted in so bad I had to force it out with a slidehammer.
I dont want to sound like a simpleton, but what is a slide hammer could you post a pic of the tool? In the picture you posted if you see the sign stating "(2) HANDLEBAR WEIGHT" the arrow points roughly to where the hole is on my bars, its further up the bars.
 
  #38  
Old 03-16-2016, 11:28 AM
Mattson's Avatar
Retired Super Moderator, Tin Star Man & Hurricane Saloon Prospect, ROTM Feb 2015
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Vääksy, Finland
Posts: 2,382
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default



Slide hammer extracting a brake drum. The big handle slides back and forth, when you hit it against the handle in the far end you can kinda reverse hit things thus pulling them out. There is a whole lot of different tips available and you can always make more if need be (and U got a welder) Good ones cost a bit but it'll surely get you out of a few pickles saving you heaps of time and nerves. I'm a trucker so the one I have is way overkill for bike stuff but hey, at least it gets things done!

When you look at the fork tube from the end do you see two metallic "lips" coming out? You can also pull the lock clip out using those. It'll most probly destroy the clip but it's also most probly rusted rotten anyway.
 

Last edited by Mattson; 03-16-2016 at 11:57 AM.
  #39  
Old 03-17-2016, 08:22 AM
damion1986's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Seaford, UK
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Mattson


Slide hammer extracting a brake drum. The big handle slides back and forth, when you hit it against the handle in the far end you can kinda reverse hit things thus pulling them out. There is a whole lot of different tips available and you can always make more if need be (and U got a welder) Good ones cost a bit but it'll surely get you out of a few pickles saving you heaps of time and nerves. I'm a trucker so the one I have is way overkill for bike stuff but hey, at least it gets things done!

When you look at the fork tube from the end do you see two metallic "lips" coming out? You can also pull the lock clip out using those. It'll most probly destroy the clip but it's also most probly rusted rotten anyway.
I will have a look into this on the weekend, do you know anything about legally replacing a speedo gauge with "0" miles on the clock, i originally have almost 41000 miles on the old clock but a new one will come with no millage. Im not sure what the UK rules are to legally declare a new speedo with no milage and how to go about it.
 
  #40  
Old 03-17-2016, 11:18 AM
Mattson's Avatar
Retired Super Moderator, Tin Star Man & Hurricane Saloon Prospect, ROTM Feb 2015
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Vääksy, Finland
Posts: 2,382
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I wouldn't know of UK regulations, we don't have motorbike MOT:s here so basically no one gives a damn about meter readings
 


Quick Reply: CBR F2 Streetfighter Project - Update throughout 2016



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:40 PM.