I found the neutral light lights up on new gauge when power is turned on all lights show but when I put the single neutral cable from bike look onto the single cable from new gauge there is no light when im in neutral. Im a bit stuck maybe ive missed something?

 

From the top:

Turn the ignition on, wait for the gauge to self-test. Then take the neutral wire that's coming from the gauge and poke it straight to a bare spot in the frame and see if the light lits up.

You do have a multimeter right?

If you were able to get the light to turn on by grounding the neutral wire from the gauge you can rule that out. Then you need to test if the neutral switch is working or not. First off turn your multimeter to beep. Put one of the test probes onto the wire end that you believe to be the original neutral signal wire, then take the connector off from the neutral switch and poke the other probe into the connector to verify that is indeed the right wire and that it has continuity. If you get a beep, make sure the bike is in neutral, poke one of the probes to the spade connector in the neutral switch and the other to the frame (battery minus if the wires reach).

 

I will try this on saturday only one question to this. Where abouts is the neutral switch located on the F2 also I have a multimeter but for the love of god I dont know how to use most of the settings. Im a real noobie at this but willing to learn. The neutral to frame is straight forward. I know the neutral was working fine on the old gauge no problem at all but this gauge doesnt recognise it. I will have to do the frame check with what I consider the neutral wire. Would the frame earth check do the same to test all the other wires from the gauge as well for example rpm/oil/signal wires. Will this light them up to?

 

It will not. The neutral switch is a simple magnetic on/off switch, it either earths or it doesn't. For example the coolant temp sensor is a thermovariable resistor that changes it's resistance when it heats up. If the thermistor is beeping it has zero resistance and is then shorted.

To find the neutral switch look for a light green wire close the shifter axel, near the sidestand. it should be in a cranny just above where the axel goes to the engine. You should be able to find a 3-pin connector for the wire under the tank that you can use to probe it. The other two wires for this connector are the oil pressure sensor and the coolant temp sensor.

The continuity beeper in the multimeter is the speaker/soumdwave kinda symbol. It's a good practice to take upon to always hit the probes together before doing testing to verify that the beeper is working.

Always beep-test non-charged wires. It is possible to break the beeper by probing wires that have high enough voltage.

 

Ok I managed to get the neutral light on by grounding the neutral wire from the loom and gauge wire both connected but doesnt work when kicking it on gear it still stays on. I tried the old neutral light and it works fine. Neutral works on old but not on new. However the new neutral only has the neutral signal cable for the light on the new gauge. However the old neutral has 2 wires. Power and neutral wire. So confusaing why it wont work. All works fine but I think its down to 2 wires old to 1 wire new gauge.

The rpm I figured out when I use the beep setting on the multimeter and connect the yelow/green to the black end multimeter and the red end of the multimeter to the negative on battery it picks up the revs. But he revs are double the output of what it should be I.e 3k rpm not 1.5k rpm which it should be. But when I connect a normal wire from the green/yellow rpm to the negative on the battery it doesnt work and no rpms show on the gauge? Am I missing something here? Why does the multimeter link from rpm wire to negatove battery work fine but not a normal wire?

 

Shouldn't the yellow/green wire go to the CDI box, or the "spark unit" as it is described in the diagram? Not to the ground. Don't really understand how can you get any signal by grounding the wire, multimeter or not.

The reason for the double revs is the fact that the bike runs what is called a wasted spark system. There are two coils instead of four, and one or the other coils always fire producing spark into two cylinders of which only one is used, hence the name wasted spark. To get the gauge to read right you need to go into the gauge settings and set the cylinder count to 2 not 4.

The gauge seems to have a gear display but the diagrams doesn't tell if it wants a voltage signal or does it want a ground signal. If it wants a ground to display neutral it should not need an external power for the neutral signal, it should be provided via the gauge main power.

Can you get the gauge to show different gears by poking the gear indicator wires one by one to the frame?

 

What I mean is that the yellow/green rpm wire is connected feom gauge to cdi spark unit but I test the cable with a multimeter to the negative o the battery and only when another connection from the yellow/green to the negative on bat is made it then shows me the rpm. For the love of bikes the gauge I bought is pretty bad due to the fact I got chinese instructions and it is a pain to intemperate I can not even find how to change the settings and I cant understand how to set my old milage onto the new clocks. It also I founf out how to set time but it wont remember it the next day so its getting to the point Im feeling like giving up.

What I dont understand abiut the neutral light is why does it not work. The wiring is good and it all seems fine I just think its something to do with the wiring near gauge. Why it wont work with the N light on gauge but the old gauge N light still works.

The gears I honestly havent though much about trying as I wouldnt have a clue if the bike would be able to flag gears up on the gauge.

 

Sorry thought id send you some pics of what im trying to explain, i find it easier showing how ive done things.

First pic of the RPM that works on the new gauge. For some reason if i was to swap the multimeter with normal cable it wont work.



And this is the old and new neutral light set up, the old has 2 seperate wires, where as the new gauge has 1 pin to neutral light and mains power for all gauge components.



Any imput to what i could do with both of these scenarios?

 

A-haa that actually makes a lot of sense. What you need is a pull-down resistor (don`t ask ) If you replace the meter with a straight ground wire all of the signal goes straight to the ground and none go to the gauge which is why it doesn`t work. Electricity is lazy, it always follows the path of least resistance.



In the pic a regular carbon film resistor, you`ll be needing ones that look like this. The colored lines tell you the value, IIRC I believe this one in question is a 270ohm with 5% tolerance.

Go to your local electronics part shop, TV repair shop, wherever you can buy electrical components. Buy a selection of resistors between something like 100ohm to 1kilo-ohm as I can`t tell you an exact value to try, they`re cheaper than soap, something like 10pence a pop so you won`t break your bank. If they`re starting to ask questions about amperage or stuff like that just tell them you`re putting a pull-down resistor to a motorbike rev gauge and they should give you what you need.


Now replace the multimeter in the picture with one of the resistors, and a wire to the battery minus (or any ground spot easily available). Don`t solder it in right away as you`ll probly need to experiment with the resistance to find one that produces a clean signal throughout the rev range. That should cure your tach issue. Apart of course the double readout, the cheap chinese gauges can be a pain to set up, I got one in the garage that should have a settings menu but damned if I know how to get in so it`s kinda useless...


That neutral thingy is a bit of a headscratcher. None of the papers you photoed tell me if the gauge wants a positive or negative neutral signal. Do me a favor: Turn on the power, take your multimeter, turn it to 20v DC and while the power is switched on, measure the current between the neutral wire that`s coming from the gauge, and ground.

 

You Mattson are a diamond! But of course a resistor makes sence, the current must be to high to the gauge for just a straight connection from the spark. Would it work on the negative on battery and or earth point on the frame? I will be taking the pic of that resistor into my partners step dads shop, he is a trades sparky so perfect guy to ask. Also I will be doing more checks and tests to the neutral this weekend coming 27/28 feb as it will be the next day free from the work/missus lol. I will post up more results of the question you have asked about the ground resistance to neutral and update this time next week. The other question I have, I have the speedo from the new gauge, how to connect this to the bike? front or rear wheel? If so do you have any tips or good known spots to put this as it is the magnetic speed sensor.

Only thing im worried about is the neutral and the odometers millage as i need it to be set to my old milage to pass the bikes MOT in july lol