Could someone point me in the right direction with the carb synching slots or nubs where the tubes to sync the carbs are? I know where the number one and two are but not the three and four. Also, if i take the vacuum tube off the carb that hooks up to the petcock on the gas tank won't the tank essentially not pump gas into the carbs? Just a thought and hopefully a push in the right direction.

THanks.

 

You may need to feed fuel to the carbs manually, using a funnel flowing to the main fuel line (tank removed).

The #3 and #4 nipples may be more visible from the right side of the motor, I can't remember their exact position, but they are there!

 

I synched my F2's carbs yesterday. First time for me
Struggled with the exact same questions as you.

Like you said, number 1 and 2 are easily located. Well, number 3 and 4 is in the exact same position beneath the carbs, as on the first two.

Whereas on the 1 and 2 has a little tube connector, the 3 and 4 doesnt. Instead there is a little screw where the connector should have been. What you need to do is unscrew this screw, then use an adaptor an screw this into where the screw sat. Connect the gauge tube to the connector.
There are two screws in total. One for each of the 3 and 4 carbs. They are best accesible from the left of the engine (Same side as you access the number 1 and 2's).

As for the gas: Yes, when you remove the vaccum hose the tank wont supply petrol any longer. So you will either have to arrange some sort of temporary gas supply, or you will have to add vacuum to the gas-tank.

I found that my engine will easily run for 10 minutes without any gas supply (with whats left in the system). So what i did was is i extended the fuel and vacuum line to the gas tank. I then placed the gastank a few feet to the side and above the bike (on a shelf). I set up the carb sync with all the hoses and so on, but kept the vacuum hose connected to the tank. With the tank connected, I started the engine to let the system fill up with fuel, then stopped it again. I then disconnected the vacuum hose to the tank and connected the no1 gauge instead.

With this set up I had 10 minutes to do the adjustment before the engine ran out of gas. When it did, i quickly swapped the vacuum hoses and filled the system up again. As this was my first time synching the carbs, the adjustment took me 30 minutes, or 3 fillups of gas, if you wish.

The next time i bet i can do it under 10 minutes, once everything is set up. Meaning esentially that i can just remove the gas tank and leave it at that.

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On a sidenote, my carbs was pretty much in synch when i first measured them. Only cylinder 3 were slightly off (just a tad).
So I adjusted the no3 and left it at that. Didnt expect that small of an adjustment to do much of a difference, but boy
was I wrong. The throttle response has greatly increased.

I loved the synch so much i offered a couple of neighbours to help them to the same to their bikes aswell; a 1990 Honda VFR and a 1986 Honda VF500.
The VF500 was completely off synch, the VFR not so much. They both gave the same conclusion. After the synching throttle response increased,
idle was more smooth. Suddenly the VF500 would do wheelies, something the owner said was near impossible before the synch.

A job well done, and well worth the time and effort.


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On a second sidenote: The VF500 was a pain in the ### to get synched as the carb adjustment screws was near impossible to get to.
The F2 is a dream to work with in comparrison.

 

by adapter do you mean I should go and buy a screw in piece? Where would I get such a thing and what would you call it? What size would it be?

By the way, thanks viking for the info, very nice and easy to read. I appreciate it.

 

When you remove the screws on the 3 and 4 cylinder you are left with a threaded hole in the engine block.
Now, somehow you have to find a way to connect the vacuum gauge hose to that hole.
In other words, you need a hole-to-tab adaptor.

Most carb-synchronizing kits comes delivered with adapters that you screw into these holes.
Its basically just a simple hollow tube thats threaded in one end. You screw this tube into the hole, then connect your hose to the other end.

You can get these adaptors from most stores that sells vacuum-gauges.
Ebay has some aswell (although expensive): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOTIO...motiveQ5fTools

 

thanks, I will be looking for this and appreciate the time, thank you for the help

 

Another idea for ya is to go to your dealer and order 2 more of the vac line screws like you have on your one and two cylinder and they will have them for you the next day or so I think I spent $4.00 and worked just as well if not better since they are made for your bike I also ordered the caps so I did not have to use the old screws to close the hole back up when I was done

 

Thanks, guys. alikrazy32 that was exactly what I did. I went to legends motorsports in windsor and ordered two extra adaptors and two caps that will just stay on all the time. lol, when I called the guy had no idea what I was talking about because it was hard to describe over the phone and the microfiche doesn't really show them well. Thanks for the help guys, would be lost without all you guys.