I just looked back up at one of your posts, where you talk about your jetting setup...

You say the air mixture screw is a D-shape thing on the bottom of the carbs?

I'm pretty sure it's just a slot-screw that protrudes from the float bowl area. 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seatedis a rough starting point for stock, I think 2 3/4 works for aftermarket applications. This adjustment is usually best made with trial and error, figuring out what works best for your bike... Make a small adjustment and go for a ride through the RPM range and see what works best.

 

The idle jets are a d-shaped screws. Motion Pro sells an idle adjustment tool (link)that has a D-Shape bit (you can also buy the bit seperately). Now I couldn't get it to fit on my screws, but that may be due to the fact that I had cut slots in them with a dremel so I could use a flat bladed screwdriver.

[ol][*]The manual says to do 2-1/8 turns out on each carburator (49-states) or 2-3/4 for the Canadian one.[*]Using the idle stop screw, set the RPMs to 1200±100[*]Then you turn each screw half a turn counter-clockwise.[*]If theRPMs increase, then continue turning them out successively by half-turn increments until the RPMs no longer increase.[*]Using the idle stop screw, set the RPMs back to 1200±100.[*]Then starting with Carb 3 (then 1, 2 and 4), turn the the pilot screw clockwise in half turns until the RPMs lower by 50 rpms[*]Then turn the pilot screw counterclockwise by half a turn.[*]Repeat steps steps 6 and 7 for the remaining screws (in order specified).[/ol]Now, that is by memory, so, I could be slightly off on the steps. Consult the shop manual before attempting to make adjustments. Also note, they say to do ALL other adjustments (valve gaps, sychronization) prior to setting the pilot screws.

 

Hmm... I havent seen any D shaped screw heads on my carbs... The screws I pointed out on my carbs are slot headed, am I not correct that those are the pilot screws?

 

still having problems.. man. Yes those would be the idlemix screws. I cleaned up my carbs not too long ago. After sitting for so long most of the passages had clogged up. Did you trace all of your circuits with carb cleaner/brake clean ect. to make sure they were clear? I almost put my carbs without thouroughly checking that, i figured a 100lb. shop air line would clear everything out. I was wrong, i ended up stripping the end of a copper wire and using the individual strands to poke out the gunk. After a little while everything was clear. The biggest thing is to trace your circuits, idle, enrichener,main. to ensure they're clear of crap

I just came back from a test ride down my street. My god. runs like a top. ill have to send you some pics.

ps. if you end up taking the carbs off again to double check your work, gimmie a shout and ill see if you missed anything. cheers.

 

Yes Hershey,those are the air/fuel mixture screws.Must be different over there than here (D-shape vs. slotted).

My perfect carbs were 1 3/4 turns out.Now the streetbike is also.I'll ride it tomorrow (Thursday 11-1 after work) and let y'all know.It already revs nicer,but the plugs are fouled like you wouldn't believe.The goob I got my streetbike from put an HRC jet kit in it with a stock pipe.What an idiot [:@]

 

Mine are d-shaped as well and did the dremel slot as well. Manual does say2 1/8 out and i read somewhere 2.5out with aftermarket exhaust. I set mine at 2.25 and seems to be good right there with my supertrapp. Does anyone know why some carbs have the d shaped and some are slotted?

 

Hey BikeChump, almost forgot you lived around me!

Yeah I did the carb clean properly with a fine wire and heavy heavy douses of carb cleaner and then compressed air... I'm running way lean now with my new pipe and the way I have the air box set up.

I just ordered a Dynojet jet kit, so when that gets here I'm doing the carbs again and trying a 122 main, if that doesn't work I'll add a shim to the new needles.

wouldn't mind seeing some pics of your ride though!

Rejetting a stock bike? wtf lol... He must not have much faith in the Honda engineers

The reason I dont have D shaped screws could be that my bike is a Canadian model?

 

Please keep in mind........


When these bikes were brought over,the EPA did their respective tests on them at the national speed limit (55-70 mph forget which) in top gear.The factory sets them up lean as a snake in that rpm range.But,they compensate for this by making it rich on the top end.This is still in practice on the newer bikes as well.

So going larger on the mains isn't the best idea imo for the F2s.Going larger on the pilots sweetens it up imo.Using paper air filters is best,though.

Just got done riding mine,and man,she runs great!!

Hershey,keep us posted.

 

Dyno Jet Stage 1 kit installed, it feels faster now but it still pops on deceleration... could be because I ran out of time to properly hone in my mixture screws, will do that tomorrow.

Bad news is one of the float bowl gaskets is toast and I have a drippy carb, Honda wants $45 for a gasket kit that does 1 carb only. So screw that, they should sell them individually lol. Calling the wrecker tomorrow to see what they've got, if they cant help I guess it's back to bike bandit.

 

Clean your plugs? Love my wire-wheel!