Building F2 race bike
Please keep in mind that my responses are in no way condescending.Seems that is the way you're interpretting them.If the AMA crewchiefs and Kevin Schwantz aren't arseholes (Kevin is around here often,so is Scott Russell),no one else should be one.Period.
There are quite a few of us 'over here' that have done the same thing you are attempting.I alone have spent hundreds,possibly 1000s of hours and 10s of thousands of dollars doing what you're doing,only to learn that the frame only allows you to do so much.Even with an Attack Performance swingarm a 180 rear doesn't work,even after shaving 4mm off the chain drive-side of the hub to rid ourseves of the offset that useing an F4/F4i rear wheel creates.There are,however a few small things one can do to make the bike turn and grip better,and it isn't a 180 rear.
There are quite a few of us 'over here' that have done the same thing you are attempting.I alone have spent hundreds,possibly 1000s of hours and 10s of thousands of dollars doing what you're doing,only to learn that the frame only allows you to do so much.Even with an Attack Performance swingarm a 180 rear doesn't work,even after shaving 4mm off the chain drive-side of the hub to rid ourseves of the offset that useing an F4/F4i rear wheel creates.There are,however a few small things one can do to make the bike turn and grip better,and it isn't a 180 rear.
Please keep in mind that my responses are in no way condescending.Seems that is the way you're interpretting them.If the AMA crewchiefs and Kevin Schwantz aren't arseholes (Kevin is around here often,so is Scott Russell),no one else should be one.Period.
There are quite a few of us 'over here' that have done the same thing you are attempting.I alone have spent hundreds,possibly 1000s of hours and 10s of thousands of dollars doing what you're doing,only to learn that the frame only allows you to do so much.Even with an Attack Performance swingarm a 180 rear doesn't work,even after shaving 4mm off the chain drive-side of the hub to rid ourseves of the offset that useing an F4/F4i rear wheel creates.There are,however a few small things one can do to make the bike turn and grip better,and it isn't a 180 rear.
There are quite a few of us 'over here' that have done the same thing you are attempting.I alone have spent hundreds,possibly 1000s of hours and 10s of thousands of dollars doing what you're doing,only to learn that the frame only allows you to do so much.Even with an Attack Performance swingarm a 180 rear doesn't work,even after shaving 4mm off the chain drive-side of the hub to rid ourseves of the offset that useing an F4/F4i rear wheel creates.There are,however a few small things one can do to make the bike turn and grip better,and it isn't a 180 rear.
I've already discoverd much of what is common knowledge, about what works/is swappable with the F2/F3 is not true and your post just came across as someone repeating what they'd heard without trying it themselves. Also my bike is way different to most steelies because the class its for has much more open rules. The previous class I race in was similar, there were many known common best mods or things that had already been tried and proved not to work. I found more than a few were wrong when i tried for myself.
I've changed the front end on my so the trail has changed due to the different yoke offset. My wheels are running dead centre, I machined it all to fit.... not my first wheel swap by any means, even the weigh distribution has changed so until this ones actually been ridden right on the limit we wont know. The main reason for the swap was tyre choice, I can't get decent modern tyres for a 5.0 rims.
To be fair who knows if the guys running 5.5's here are running at the same level as u guy in the US and vice versa. Besides in club racing 90% of it's still the rider not the bike.
The wonders of the internet forum eh, that was how I interpereted it.
I've already discoverd much of what is common knowledge, about what works/is swappable with the F2/F3 is not true and your post just came across as someone repeating what they'd heard without trying it themselves. Also my bike is way different to most steelies because the class its for has much more open rules. The previous class I race in was similar, there were many known common best mods or things that had already been tried and proved not to work. I found more than a few were wrong when i tried for myself.
I've changed the front end on my so the trail has changed due to the different yoke offset. My wheels are running dead centre, I machined it all to fit.... not my first wheel swap by any means, even the weigh distribution has changed so until this ones actually been ridden right on the limit we wont know. The main reason for the swap was tyre choice, I can't get decent modern tyres for a 5.0 rims.
To be fair who knows if the guys running 5.5's here are running at the same level as u guy in the US and vice versa. Besides in club racing 90% of it's still the rider not the bike.
I've already discoverd much of what is common knowledge, about what works/is swappable with the F2/F3 is not true and your post just came across as someone repeating what they'd heard without trying it themselves. Also my bike is way different to most steelies because the class its for has much more open rules. The previous class I race in was similar, there were many known common best mods or things that had already been tried and proved not to work. I found more than a few were wrong when i tried for myself.
I've changed the front end on my so the trail has changed due to the different yoke offset. My wheels are running dead centre, I machined it all to fit.... not my first wheel swap by any means, even the weigh distribution has changed so until this ones actually been ridden right on the limit we wont know. The main reason for the swap was tyre choice, I can't get decent modern tyres for a 5.0 rims.
To be fair who knows if the guys running 5.5's here are running at the same level as u guy in the US and vice versa. Besides in club racing 90% of it's still the rider not the bike.
Now,'over there',is there a separate class for the F2s? Over here in WERA you're better off with an F3,as there is no separate class for either.But I have raced a full-on F2,then threw F3 parts at it and raced it as a 'hybrid',then a full-on F3.
We're not allowed to use radial mounted brakes and all parts that are not OEM must have been designed during the period the F2s and F3s were made.
I've had different front ends on my race bike and found that the F3 front end allows the bike to switch directions much easier.Especially in the 'bus stop' at Road Atlanta.I have strong shoulders,but damn if the bike was still difficult to 'flip-flop' it through there.
Your final statement I totally agree with.But no disrespect to the others,I'm one of the front runners over here and a threat for the win.I'm also known for hoarding parts,as I am always experimenting and the supply over here is drying up FAST.As an example,I have 4 Ohlins shocks lol.
It's now up for sale, I know most of you on here are from the USA but for those of us from the UK:
CBR 600 F2 / F3 Race / Track bike steelie steely Honda | eBay
CBR 600 F2 / F3 Race / Track bike steelie steely Honda | eBay
It's now up for sale, I know most of you on here are from the USA but for those of us from the UK:
CBR 600 F2 / F3 Race / Track bike steelie steely Honda | eBay

CBR 600 F2 / F3 Race / Track bike steelie steely Honda | eBay
Never seen one with '08 CBR1000rr bodywork.
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