Hey jns, how much is it going to cost to get the powder coating done? I've been thinking about getting that done also. I already have the tabs cleaned up on it and it's just spray painted right now. What color are you going with? I'm thinking gloss black on mine. Hey I need to see how you did your spools as I am getting ready to do mine. Good work btw.

 

I'm going with a satin black - not quite flat black, but very little gloss - like modern sportbike frames and such... I was quoted $40 - $50, but that was just for the swingarm, and I added the end-plates for the axle adjusters, so it will probably be just a little bit more.

I'll get some pics of the spool setup - there's really nothing to it, mainly just properly locating and drilling the hole - I'm using a heavy duty square nut, like pictured below, and locating it on the inside of the swinger, with the beveled edge sitting against the box wall, so that way the bevel fits into the slight radius of the box section corner, and can sit low enough that it will "lock itself" into place, while you tighten the spool bolts.

 

Yeah,40-50 bucks don't sound to bad. I was thinking about gloss black on mine. The place around here quoted me $90 to do each rim when I was thinking of getting them done. So you don't have to fish a wrench inside the swingarm to hold the nut on the spools?

 

$90 per rim sounds a touch high, but I've heard of much higher.

No need for a wrench - the downward-facing flat side of the nut locks against the inside bottom of the swing arm, so that it stays put while you tighten the bolt - all you have to do is use your finger, through the axle slot, to hold the nut in place just while you get the threads started.

 

Oh rubbish...why didnt i get on this thread sooner

Removing the mudguard is a bad idea without heel plates i constantly rub my heels on the mudguard as well as everyone else i know who races your left boot will be a wreck

As for the paddock stand bobbins drill a hole in the swingarm and tap it but due to it only being thin metal put a nyloc inside to keep it tight

 

I'm not running without heel plates, and the hugger is being replaced by a chain guard that gives quite a bit of coverage, as a matter of fact, more coverage than I'd really like... the picture is not very big, but this is the chain guard:

JDA CUSTOM SPORT BIKE PARTS...

Yeah, nothing to tap, for sure! Anyway, this job has already been done - I'm using a square nut, as described above, to eliminate the need for a wrench on the inside, and using thread locking compound... I know this will hold (the loc-tite) as it held for 4 years with my last setup!

 

I picked up the swingarm, and the end-caps for the axle adjusters, from the powder-coaters today during lunch... very happy with how it turned out.



Also, my chain guard shipped today, so I should receive it either Monday or Tuesday.

The shift kit came the day before yesterday, so this weekend I can get that installed, replace the clutch, reinstall the swingarm and rear wheel, and maybe also get the repair done to the race plastics.

 

...I can see the bearing inside the axel hole... You do know powdercoat is baked on in a 200c oven? IF the bearings survived they probly need a liberal greasing as the first thing. I`m sure you`re probly aware of this but said it anyway so it`s said...

 

The two roller bearings sets on the brake-side, and of course all the seals and spacers, were removed, but the left side's needle bearing set is very difficult to extract - I'm not even certain what type of tool could even feasibly do this, as the ID of the needle bearing set is the same as the ID of the swingarm mounting tube, and there's little-to-no space between the two; that set is pressed in to where it pretty much butts right up against the tube.

That said, I was confident (and hopeful) that the needle bearings would survive the baking process, enough that I took that risk, and they do still rotate freely... and yes, gratuitous greasing will occur!

 

as always jns top notch work...