'93 F2 Mods - Phase 2
Thanks, I'm happy with it, as it needed a little bit more color - the black/red/yellow only, was still just a touch bland.
Yeah, these are also Cheetah fairings.
Yes and no... the supersport style tail, does employ your stock seat, and covers the pillion, but in my case, as you may remember from a previous post, I bought an additional seat, uncovered it, cut it down, and recovered it, so that it's kind of a "makeshift" single seat, which is somewhere between 1 1/2 lb. and 2 lb. lighter than the full seat.

I will run it like this for this season, but next year, I will be going with the F3 superbike tail, and using the foam seat pad - that tail looks like this:

I will run it like this for this season, but next year, I will be going with the F3 superbike tail, and using the foam seat pad - that tail looks like this:
Oh, and yes, it does sound very nice!
Yes and no... the supersport style tail, does employ your stock seat, and covers the pillion, but in my case, as you may remember from a previous post, I bought an additional seat, uncovered it, cut it down, and recovered it, so that it's kind of a "makeshift" single seat, which is somewhere between 1 1/2 lb. and 2 lb. lighter than the full seat.
I will run it like this for this season, but next year, I will be going with the F3 superbike tail, and using the foam seat pad -
If you're talking about the advantage of that F3 superbike tail, that I will use next year, than yes, that's one advantage, but there are several.
1) Let's face it, the F2 and early F3 supersport tail, like what each of us have, which employs the banana seat, is fat and ugly - it looks like a boat from the rear!
So, firstly, the tail I'm after is just plain better looking than the current one!
2) It has a more aerodynamic profile.
3) Using a thinner foam seat pad, allows you to get more feel from the bike on the track, namely what's going on with the rear suspension.
4) Lastly, yes, weight savings... that piece of foam is only a few ounces, but the OEM seat is almost exactly 4.75 lb., not counting the mounting bolts and washers. Even if you remove the passenger hold strap and its accompanying hardware, including yanking out the square-head bolts from the plastic base, the seat is right at about 4.25 lb., and a location up high like that, is a good place to lose almost 5 pounds!
1) Let's face it, the F2 and early F3 supersport tail, like what each of us have, which employs the banana seat, is fat and ugly - it looks like a boat from the rear!
2) It has a more aerodynamic profile.
3) Using a thinner foam seat pad, allows you to get more feel from the bike on the track, namely what's going on with the rear suspension.
4) Lastly, yes, weight savings... that piece of foam is only a few ounces, but the OEM seat is almost exactly 4.75 lb., not counting the mounting bolts and washers. Even if you remove the passenger hold strap and its accompanying hardware, including yanking out the square-head bolts from the plastic base, the seat is right at about 4.25 lb., and a location up high like that, is a good place to lose almost 5 pounds!
You and your weight savings. Haha.
So I haven't decided if I'm going to try and make my Cheetah fairings work, but, what did you use to connect the front fairing to the underbelly piece? You have 3 screw like things that look like they connect.
So I haven't decided if I'm going to try and make my Cheetah fairings work, but, what did you use to connect the front fairing to the underbelly piece? You have 3 screw like things that look like they connect.
KurveyGirl - Motorcycle Stuff: Dzus Fasteners, angled valve stems, Vesrah and More
You should have three holes on each side (I'm thinking you'll still have to drill yours), and to further stabilize the lowers, once you have mocked up the uppers and lowers (on the bike), and get the appropriate holes drilled for the Dzus fasteners, you should drill a hole on each side, for the rear-most lower mounts that were employed for the OEM-type plastics... the mount circled in green in this pic, and the corresponding spot on the other side.
You should have three holes on each side (I'm thinking you'll still have to drill yours), and to further stabilize the lowers, once you have mocked up the uppers and lowers (on the bike), and get the appropriate holes drilled for the Dzus fasteners, you should drill a hole on each side, for the rear-most lower mounts that were employed for the OEM-type plastics... the mount circled in green in this pic, and the corresponding spot on the other side.
Well, the D-Ring portion is used either way, the difference in the kit I use, and the kits with the black D-Rings, are the retainers. I have only used the type in the link, but I don't see why the others wouldn't work... it seems to me, that the S-Spring retainers get a better "bite" from the D-Rings, if that makes sense.


