CBR 600F2 1991 - 1994 CBR 600F2

1994 CBR600F2 Rectifier Issue

  #1  
Old 06-02-2018, 07:31 PM
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Default 1994 CBR600F2 Rectifier Issue

Hello everyone, I wanted to get some input on what I believe to be a possible regulator rectifier issue. The bike is a 1994 CBR600F2. I purchased the bike and rode it home for one hour. Then I took the bike out again and proceeded to ride it and after a burst of hard acceleration it died on me. I pulled over to the side of the road and tried to start it again but was unable to. I then proceeded to have someone help me jumpstart the bike. Then I rode it for about a minute when it proceeded to die again. I then jumpstarted it once again and was able to ride it the 5 minutes home.

After a night of leaving it on the battery tender I was able to start it no problem. I read online that if you disconnect the positive battery terminal while it is running, and the bike dies it is a rectifier problem. So, I did that and as soon as I disconnect the battery the bike dies.

I believe this to be an aftermarket rectifier as it has cooling fins. I pulled it off the bike and when examining the back noticed to cracks. I will attach pictures. I would like some input/confirmation to what this may be. Thank you!
 
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Old 06-04-2018, 05:09 PM
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Someone may correct me, but the F2 is not known to have stator issues. Regulators, OTOH, are a common failure.

Ohming out the stator is not a big deal. If the stator checks out OK, then you probably have a bad R/R (which you say has some 'cracks'?) and/or some burnt wiring (the Molex connector for the stator wires can overheat due to high current and corrosion on the male/female pins creating an unacceptable voltage drop and thus heat).

You can replace the R/R with Honda stock type and face the same issue in a few years, or go with a Shindengen mosfet and be done with the deal for what is likely the life of the bike. Be warned that there are LOTS of counterfeit R/R's out there...you are very unlikely to score a new authentic Shindengen regulator for under $100. Best to deal with Jack at Roadstercycle and get it done right the first time.

Roadstercycle Website

A few vids:

 
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Old 06-04-2018, 05:41 PM
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Thank you for taking the time to respond. I had originally posted this thread yesterday but was not granted posting access until today. Within that time I was able to pull the rectifier and its plug out to find the plug had burnt two connections. Here is a photo. I apologize for the blurriness but I think it gets the point across. I have ordered a new R/R plug already as well as a new R/R but I think Ill take your advice and order a better part. Ill use the the cheap R/R for the time being.

Anyways due to the damage to the plug would you say its safe to call the rectifier the problem?
 
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:14 PM
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Blurred or not, that's ugly. And not uncommon.

Watch the videos. The charging system of a bike is a really simple affair. If the wiring is repaired (seems most recommend soldering & shrink wrapping those stator wires running to the R/R, but there are some really nice connectors available if you don't want to solder the stator wires permanently) and the stator checks out OK, then you'll be fine with a R/R replacement.

Good source for connectors for stator-to-R/R wiring: R/R Connectors
 
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:13 AM
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The original honda oem reg/rec are a common failure.


I dislike aftermarket reg/rec as the quality is often unknown.
I've seen more than a few of those fail too.
Electrical problems can be a real pain in the *** to solve too.


I've always replaced the old reg/rec with the newer honda one. Honda has an updated design and part # for the oem reg/rec.
I've never seen one of the newer ones fail and they are plug and play. No need to splice, cut or chop anything.
 
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Old 06-08-2018, 06:16 PM
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Hey all, I know this is a late reply but was hoping to get some feedback. Earlier I stated how I tested the rectifier by removing the positive terminal of the battery and was hoping to get some feedback on this.

I replaced the rectifier today and did the same test. I started the bike and then removed the positive battery cable and the bike immediately died. My question is, is the bike supposed to be able to idle with the battery disconnected? If it is then does this mean my stator is bad?
 
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Old 06-08-2018, 06:41 PM
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I'm not sure of the answer to your question.

But even if you did get/know the answer. Disconnecting the battery isn't going to tell you what is wrong with your bike. It will only tell you that _something_ is wrong. It's not a good diagnostic test.

If you want to know if the stator is good. Get a meter and test the stator or have someone else test it. Same with reg/rec's. You really need to test each component by itself to know if it's good or not. Otherwise you will just be guessing and maybe replacing things that weren't bad.
 
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Old 06-08-2018, 06:44 PM
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You might just try measuring the voltage with the bike on, but not running.
Then start the bike and measure the voltage at say 2k and 5k rpms.


Should be around 14.2v at 2k and drop to 13.8v or so at 5k, but that's with a stock reg/rec. Those reading indicate both the stator and reg/rec are working correctly.
 
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