Hey All

So I've made a version of the 'safe' bottle manometer and am basically bricking it as i don't know if it will be up to the job! If you've done this before and have any tips then I'd love to hear from you.
Thanks very much
Rog

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I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work as long as everything is sealed up good. I don't know exactly how much vacuum the carbs pull in through those holes, but the fancy Morgan Carbtune tool maxes out at 40 cm / Hg so it would definitely be less than that which isn't a huge amount anyway. My super cheap manometer that I built works fine, and it's just clear tubing with oil inside, so I wouldn't think you would have any issues. Looks like a job well done to me

 

They don`t pull that much vacuum. 15-20 inHg (about 7-10 psi). Unless your carbs are REALLY out of balance, you won`t have to worry about one carb pulling enough fluid into one jar. Basically it would have to be 3 carbs not pulling any vacuum whatsoever.

 

Hi Tahoerider and CorruptFile cheers for your replies I think I'll just have to give the thing a whirl when I get some time. 7 to 10 psi doesn't sound too bad so hopefully the seals will hold. Have a dumb question tho: can you remember how the synch screws operate - like clockwise increases or decreases the pressure? I know I should just try it and see but I thought I'd ask for the heck of it before I do the job.

Thanks again guys. Hey I'd really to see a walk round of your bikes if you ever fancy doing one sometime. They're both great examples of this model and you could show 'em off.
Rog

 

No problem. Mines naked right now for the winter, but I will be down to check over it soon, so maybe then ;-)

As for the sync, you aren't changing the actual amount of vacuum one carb us pulling, you are just adjusting the relative amount of vacuum from one carb to another. I don't remember which direction changes what, but you will see one water level go down and the other go up. You want to sync 1 & 2, then 3 & 4, then 2 & 3.

 

I don't remember which direction is which either, but it's a pretty easy job once you have everything hooked up and the engine running. It might take a little fiddling back & forth on the adjustments to get close if they're far out of sync, but once you get it in the ball park it shouldn't be too difficult to get it dialed in. The only thing that surprised me the first time was that the adjustments are pretty sensitive.. an 1/8th of a turn makes a very big change on the manometer, at least on mine.

I have some pictures of mine, but no walk around video as of yet. Will try to get one done sometime soon although it doesn't look quite as nice now as when I painted it a couple years back.

 

I'm hoping to have a go at the carb synch maybe this coming week. I'd also like to start looking at sorting out the plastics as there are a number of stress cracks and lugs missing etc not to mention the fact that I want to spray them.

Take it easy guys and if like me you're somewhere cold then get wrapped up. Here in South Yorkshire - England it's trying to snow bbrrrrgggghhhhh

 

I'm interested to see how that manometer design works out for you when you get a chance to test it. If you need any help with the plastics I have done a fair amount of experimenting repairing cracks, adding pieces, and painting mine on a budget.

It's snowing not to far up the hill from here as well, but I look forward to this time of year as much as summer.. time to put away the bike and break out the snowboard

 

Thanks tahoerider, I'll take you up on that offer of advice on the plastics man. I'll do a vid showing what I've got to tackle Snowboarding rocks I'd love to do that one day. Over here we have a somewhat cruder winter sport called "polybagging" - you climb inside a polythene bag and slide down a hill generally getting hurt on the way down