Some OEM and aftermarket fiber clutch plates have oil groves cut into each side of the
fiber plate

The groves allows the centrifical force of the spinning clutch to fling off oil from the clutch plates.

This makes for a better grip between the metal and fiber plates which means less slippage and more power to the rear tire.

When installing these plates you have to line up all of the groves so they point in the direction of the rotation of the clutch basket.

If you don’t line up the plates the clutch won’t work.[/align]

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I figured it out. All the metal plates I bought with that Barnett kit were warped. I just went back to the old clutch and it works as it did.

I just picked up another clutch and 4 used metal plates to replace the burned and warped one that is currently in there. I'll install that this weekend.

The new clutch plates I bought have the angled grooves that SIRR1 is talking about.

Does the clutch turn the same way as the tires (clockwise from the right side)???

 

Just a side note: I noticed my clutch springs are 38.5MM and the Haynes manual says they must be at least 41MM. Since it isn't slipping and I like the easier pull I think I'll stick with the old ones. If it does start slipping I'll know what it is.

I'm getting pretty good at installing that clutch. I've got it down to about 30 minutes, since I've done it like 8 times this week. Now if I'd learn to read directions I could have done it right the first time and checked the "new" (opened package on feeBay) plates for warpage.

 

An old dirt bike trick we used to use when clutch spring lost their spring was to insert a common washer at the end of each spring and tighten them down to specs.

This washer would pick up the slack of the weakened spring and keep the clutchworking. easy fix in a pinch untill you can get new springs.

 

I found some springs on feeBay for $8 after shipping.

If anyone is interested they are item #320103257738 and there is 5 available (as of today).