hmm, I'll take a look when I get home, so when that relay trips you have to replace the relay?

 

Yes, I just never replaced mine, so I do not know how much it is going to cost you. I will keep checking to see if you have anymore questions.
Kcityrider

 

I jumped the 2 black wires that go to the fuel cut off relay, but the pump starts running as soon as i turn the accessory on, normally the fuel pump kicks in when trying to start it. I really don't want the pump running like that when it's not supposed to. So I guess I need to replace the relay for the bike to operate to factory specs correct?

Does this relay really trip when the bike is taken past redline? If that's the case I also worry if I am in the middle of nowhere and miss a shift and trip this relay again. I couldn't find anything about this redline situation in my Cylmer manual. Any input is appreciated!

 

Your fuel pump should run whenever the bike is on, long before you start it, it needs to pressurize the fuel system and as soon as the key is on it should fire up.
Do you have a DMM? (digital multi meter)
Do you know how to use it?
If you have one and know how to use it the manual will tell you everything you need to track down the problem.
A test light will not tell you enough about the circuit to know if all is well, throw it away.
www.the12volt.com has very good instructions for beginers in electricity on how to use a dmm, to how to troubleshoot, wire a relay, etc.
A simple test to see if a relay is working is to put power to terminal 86 and ground to terminal 85, if it clicks it works and you have a problem somewhere else. Possibly in the multitude of grounds that can corrode and cause intermittent or no operation.
A relay is nothing but an electromagnetic switch, meaning its just likea switch you flip, but electricity turns it on instead. They are used for higher current applications when a switch or smaller wire cannot support the higher current loads. Like your starter. The wiring to have the starter switch directly fire the starter would be at least 8 ga, possible 6 ga, to run from the battery to the switch to the starter. BY running a relay they can run very light small gauge wire like 18-20 to the switch and have it control a relay to fire the starter. It ends up weighin about 1/3 less that way, but if you know knothing about electronics its waaaaay harder for you to deal with.
Unfortunately electronics are very hard to troubleshoot over a forum and I usually keep my mouth shut, however this should give you a starting place.
pm if you need more.

 

Since I don't have the cash for a relay right now ($48-$60), I have been trying to jump it (the 2 black wires togeather). But as soon as it starts, for like 1-2 seconds, it dies out, so I am assuming that yellow wire that goes into the relay (which goes to the tach and spark controller) must have to be hooked up somewhere too? I will have to test that yellow wire to see if it has any powering going through it to trip the relay.

What a useless relay. What have you other guys done with that yellow wire to get your bikes running without this stupid relay?!?!?

I am going to replace the relay eventually, I just want to ride right now!

 

The yellow wire that goes to the fuel cut relay get's power as soon as the key is switched on, just like everything else (main black wire that goes to the relay, so it seems all 3 should be jumped togeather, but I want to find out from someone that has done this successfully already before hooking it up (dont want to fry anything)

 

The relay will does not trip, but cuts signal to the pump so the engine can not climb any higher in rpm. Once the key is turned off then back on, it will supply the pump with the signal again. I know the manual does not talk about it, I talked to my frien who has been a Honda Motorcycle for quite a long time, and he explained it to me, basically it is a basic form of a rev limiter. Hope this helps.
Kcityrider

 

All this because the bike was run with the petcock off, died at the end of the street (probably from running out of fuel in the bowls)and BAM, cant get the damn thing running again.

I guess I should see if the carbs need cleaning, the plugs and all filters are BRAND new, less than 100 miles on everything. I doubt the gas "went bad" in the 3 weeks it has been sitting for but ill change that as well.

 

Fixed the problem(s) (yes, 2 things here). 1. The fuel pump cut relay was bad, and jumping it did work (the 2 black wires). I didn't need the fuel pump I bought, but hey, now I have a spare.

The main problem was this: Remember when I said my tank had a ton of rust in it and I sealed it? Well, whenever I drove it and stopped, the extra dissolved rust that was in the fuel would sit in the bowls of the carbs and apprently build up, and when I ran the bike dry with the petcock off, it sucked all that crap in. When my roommate and I took apart the carbs, 2 of the pilot jets were completely clogged and the others you could barely see through. My Clymer manual was very good in terms of directions to clean the carbs, but we had a little work putting them back togeather because the main rail they attach to bends easily and there are these little springs for the carb syncing that we were putting in on the wrong side of the throttle arms which was keeping the intake flaps partially open, but it was easy to see that I just installed them on the wrong side.

The bike runs smooth and starts right up now. All I have to do is readjust the throttle (take the tank, airbox off ect) because it's not snapping back after I let it go and I did lubricate the throttle cables.

ALMOST there!